Once again, my apologies Hussain.

That's definitely some reassurance that I could use Janny. I guess after reading all of the info, it would probably be best to go with the HC setup.

My main concerns are A)reliability, B) pass emissions, and C) the computer programming.

I just want something I'm not going to regret, and I'm going to be perfectly happy with.

 

I have same concern but I dont mind getting reprogram. I know I will get reprogram form PCM for Less

 

I don't mind the reprogram either. I'm just concerned about it being done right. For some reason I ALWAYS tend to have bad luck no matter who works on my car. I've only had good luck at ONE place. Never had a problem, never had a complaint. The work is top-notch and the quality of his work are unmatched.

If you're in the Silver Spring, MD/ Northern VA area, give John Sandmeyer at European Auto a call. 301-565-9023.

 

LT4 cam specs - 203/210 .446/.449 - 115 LSA
Stock LT1 specs - 203/208 .450/.460 - 116 LSA

Dan, you might gain 5 hp from the cam. The roller rockers would be giving your biggest gain (10-15 hp). As has been said, putting this cam in your car would be a waste of time/money. The hotcam will pass emissions and it will give you a good power gain - something you will feel.

 

what about LT4 Hot cam

 

Bowtie, I did go back to the catalog and review the specs for both, the LT1 cam and the LT4 cam, and was kind of second-guessing my decision, as seeing by the #s that there wasn't much difference between the two. However, it's not always the #s that make the difference, but more the shape of the lobes; correct me if I'm wrong.

However, by the same token, it seems to be a unanimous decision to go with the Hot Cam setup. I think that's what I'll probably do.

I know I'm repeating myself here, but I just want something that's going to be dead-on reliable, will be able to idle in rush-hour traffic jams, perform, and will not be problematic. Also, I'm sure you can understand my concern as to the importance that it passes emissions as well. I'm not a tree-hugger by any means, but I do want something that I can LEGALLY drive on the street. It's just a bonus if it's a clean car as well. The only 3 things that concern me are reliability/driveability, passing emissions, and the whole thing about getting the computer programmed.

I see that you have the CC305 for your car. Is that cam comparable to the LT4 HC? What types of gains did you see with your CC305?

 

Dan:

Unless I'm terribly wrong, the shape of the lobes is described by the numbers that correspond to the cam.

Lift # indicates how high off center the lobe will lift
Duration # indicates how long the described lift will be maintained as measured in degrees.

The one number that doesn't describe the shape of the lobes is lobe separation angle, and it specifies how far in degrees one lobe is separated from the other.

I think Comp Cams site has a pretty good beginners tutorial explaining generally how each factor effects vehicle performance.

 

Anyone feel free to send me the graphs. Ill be happy to host them.

NineSevenWs6@yahoo.com

 

Here were my dyno#'s with stock heads. I think I was getting some knock during that run due to a broken heat shield on my cat that was vibrating bad causing the fluctuations after 5300. I've been very happy with the cam so far. Havn't been back to the track yet since the cam, going this Sat. Looking for 12.5 or so.

 

First off, HOW? 320 is allot! Second, I have the Hot Cam in a 93, read speed density. A long time ago when I went to the dyno the car only did 260. I am finshing my exhaust as I type and will be going back. Do a search on this. I remember a identical post about one week ago.

 

i have been told by the guys at thunder that the 305 is a much better cam than the hot cam.

 

I can't believe that members with that many posts couldn't find anything in the "SEARCH" area . TONS of numbers and opinions have been posted regarding the Hot Cam and Dyno numbers, emissions, etc.... Try that out and I bet all of your questions will be answered. I've read up enough on the Hot Cam to have a pretty good idea that it is the type of cam that i'd like to go with. Plenty of power and bundled in a kit.

Well, at least here's a bump for ya

 

Go with the hot cam kit as it already includes a new timing chain, lifters, and maybe something else (can't remember). Since you plan to stay as close to stock as possible the hot cam would still work great with a stock rebuild. However, I don't see how porting the heads will drive down the value of the car or make it less of a "classic." I've always thought that as long as you stick with the original engine (same heads, block, bottom end, etc)save for some upgrades like a cam, it doesn't really affect the value very much. Plus porting the heads won't take any driveability away but just add more power. Also tuning would definitely help with a cam swap. This combo should get you well into the 12's and still be as reliable as before.

Jason

 

BTW, what was done to your BC4 when it ran the 13.6@103? Also is yours an M6 or A4?

Jason

 

I'm currently runing a Hotcam and 1.6 on stock programming. It runs perfectly fine idles nice and is very very streetable. I'm getting 17.4 miles per gallon if I stay out of it most of the time. I will be doing a tune once my new shortblock has broken in a bit. No numbers on stock programing but will be doing a before and after and I'll post the results.