Well F it...if it's broke it's broke and if it isn't then great. No sense in getting all pissy about so why not try and smile and make others smile. I do what I can

 

I'll do everything I can.

 

didn't get to the testing today...weather was beautiful so I yanked down christmas lights and did other assorted honey doo chores. Should get to the leak down and compression test tomorrow.

Quick question because I can't stop thinking about it....you don't think a forged Ross piston would have cracked...I never ran more than a dry 75 shot this year. I'm paranoid now that speedy mentioned a cracked piston.

edit: never went over 75 shot because that caused me to top out on the big end....hence my thread in drag technique talking about needing more MPH.

 

Judging from the shot size alone .. the answer is NO. But... There is more to N2O than just shot size. I used the word "perfect" earlier. I am certainly no expert but from what I've studied, it doesn't take much to get out of kilter and screw something up.

I know you need just the right amount of extra fuel when shooting. It should have timing retarded slightly I believe and plugs should be slightly cooler. But all this boils down to keeping the engine out of detonation. N2O raises cylinder pressure. Detonation takes it to a much higher level.

Remember the difference between detonation and pre-ignition. Detonation occurs after the spark. Pre-ignition occurs before the spark (duh obviously from the name).

FYI: Did you know the flame front does NOT touch the piston. If it does, problems occur. That's sure to raise an argument.

 

67camaro02

I have a feeling Shoebox is correct about the rings, not sealing....yet. They may be "glazed".

The reason I suspect this is I had an identical concern with my son's 93 Z28. At 150k miles he spun #7, and we did a "quick” rebuild. = mistake

Had the block cleaned, new crankshaft, new rings and bearings, oil pump..etc. No cylinder boring (cylinders measured well, and pistons measure out ok), and reused the old pistons with new rings, with a deglaze of the cylinder bores she went back together. (did a little port work and an 845 cam).

Used quality parts (Speedpro moly rings, Clevite brgs), however.. I am from the "old school" and assembling the engine I soaked everything with oil as it went together. Ok I guess save for the cylinder prep and ring install. I oiled up the cylinders, and dunked the pistons/rings in oil and installed them.

That is where I believe I went wrong. According to my machinist, this gave to much lube on start up to the rings and glazed the cylinders.

This motor had blowby gasses like you are describing and more. (oil consumption, more blow by than the pcv system could consume..etc... The car always ran great..never fouled spark plugs.

The short of it is...about 5k miles it just cleared up, and stoppped leaking/blowing oil. Now normal pcv function.

There are possibly more opinions on how to break in a new motor, than there are on any debatable subject...

Again "old school" I told my son to drive it easy for 500 miles or so before any WOT runs.

It seems that today’s rings need to seat quick and hard, or so I am told. Once glazed............

Drive it for a while, those honey do’s are more important..

Keith

 

all the praying and finger crossing worked compression and leakdown test came back same as perfect. All plugs show a rich tune but that's it. Sppedy and Shoev- you boys do good work...I'm gonna keep you guys around.

next best guess is PCV = bad and maybe the rich condition caused cylinder wash and'or just excessive smoke...dunno but I'm in a good mood and I'm gonna go have a miller