Manufacturers always rate their products at a very high HP level. It's simply for advertising. Go on ebay.com and do a search for throttle body bypasses and you'll see claims of a 15HP increase which is BS.

 

Yea I figured its for advertising and now that I think about it, it probably is a 20hp increase only at the flywheel which yea probably figures out to be about 10 at the wheels. I would just really like to get into the 13.8 area and consitantly in the 102-100 range. I was running 14.3 with alot of wheel spin last week so I think if I would have hooked up a bit more I would have been in the 13.9-14.0 range and ran 99.1-99.5 mph most of the night. Temps were in the 80-84 range so im sure that had something to do with it. Im putting a 160* stat in this weekend and with the CAI and "free ram air mod" Im hoping that with my other mods is enough to put me in the high 13's and over 100 more often. What do you guys or gals (if there are any on here) think?

 

I am a semester away from an ME degree and I'm fully aware that the driveshaft does not "add" HP. But since it does have less of an efficiency loss than the steel one the 'freed up' HP does show up on the dyno. It is definitly relevent to include in a discussion involving just a couple rwHP. I also included it so that noone could turn around and use my reference ws6.com to punch a hole in my "HP math". Thanks for clarifying that for everyone reading through this thread.

We both had very similar CAI so it cancels out. I would estimate that switching from your dirty filter to a K&N adds 5 hp and the CAI itself adds 5. Thats probably how K&N comes up with their ridiculous HP figures, they use a really dirty stock filter instead of a new one when they test.

I also assumed that we have similar wheels and where both on a dynojet since a mustang would read a lot lower. I wish i had a before dyno so that we could put this to rest. I didn't have the ability to reload the stock program. I just went and got dyno'd one day cause i was bored and wanted a near stock benchmark so i could measure the gains of full exhuast and a cam, which i will be installing soon.

-brent

 

I think your on the right track but you also need to learn throttle modulation or get yourself some new tires.
-brent

 

Well what i did was tried to get my rpms up to about 1500-1800 after I was staged. I didnt dump the clutch but let it out quickly. I found that if I featherd the throttle at all to stop the spinning I was slower in both ET and MPH, where as if I just kept it matted it would spin but I was both quicker and faster. I'm sure if I launched correctly I'd be in good shape, but that was the first time I've ever been to the track so need some practice under my belt. The guys I go with are all newbees too so I dont have a mentor other then you guys to tell me what im doing right or wrong so learning as I go. Any tips would be greatly appreciated!!

TIA
Craig

EDIT - Tires are about 3 weeks old, granted I was running at 35 psi and didnt spin them at all before staging.

 

Holy Monkey!!!

I was just taking a poll on how many people voted for the CAI and how many voted for tuning/wires!

 

But its so much fun debating the merits.
Just for the record, I had CAI, 3.73s, MAC catback and Ed Wright tune and put down 280 RWHP.
I personally think the tuning is worth it, but I would go with Ion or Brian cause the price is much cheaper.
I love Eds tune but the real reason I go to him is cause he is within driving distance of me.

 

ha, IC. Whoops, i was just agreeing with you that i thought a CAI was much lowered than the claimed.

 

I would have gone with him anyways, but i'm in driving distance of Bryan which saved me from buying the cable.

Revtime knows what i'm talkin about!

Most say stock LT1's from 235-260, there where a lot of people surprised when i put down 277. I was most impressed with the low end though, it was more noticeable. I can lay into it a moderate amount at 1500 rpms and it pulls, before it would hesitate a little. Not as abad hesitation like before plugs and wires, but it wouldn't pick up and go like it does now.

-brent

 

I agree.

 

It increases power to the rear wheels by an almost negligible amount, but it DOES increase power. It is effectively just less drivetrain loss.

 

My butt o meter gave the fipk an A