Pass. side PaceSetter header hits motor mount??
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Oct 1999
Posts: 1,171
From: Henry, VA USA
From personal experiance with the energy suspension motor mounts, it's gonna rub JUST as bad.
Remember, you're motor's restored to a higher height, but you're clamshell's much higher also
It's all directly proportional.
You're still going to need the grinder. Especially when you suddenly hit the throttle. The motor twists towards the passanger side. The clamshell doesn't move, but your motor does. And with the motor comes the pass. primary slamming down on that clamshell again
Think it through, take your time, and grind it down to make SURE you eliminate the problem. Don't do a half decent job no matter HOW much it bites, because you'll regret it so much more in the end.
==================
P.S. I would also unbolt all the header bolts, because you may not have realised it, but you could have put them on wrong without even knowing it. Later on, you're gonna develop one nasty header leak, and with it, a big headache. Trust me, take my advice from personal experiance. It may not look like it at all, may have even torqued it to spec, but with that thing resting on the clamshell and not going on right, you could very well develop a leak. If you want, unbolt all the bolts except one, and loosen the last one so you can move the header out of the way to grind the clamshell.
At least, That's what I did.
Remember, you're motor's restored to a higher height, but you're clamshell's much higher also
It's all directly proportional.You're still going to need the grinder. Especially when you suddenly hit the throttle. The motor twists towards the passanger side. The clamshell doesn't move, but your motor does. And with the motor comes the pass. primary slamming down on that clamshell again
Think it through, take your time, and grind it down to make SURE you eliminate the problem. Don't do a half decent job no matter HOW much it bites, because you'll regret it so much more in the end.
==================
P.S. I would also unbolt all the header bolts, because you may not have realised it, but you could have put them on wrong without even knowing it. Later on, you're gonna develop one nasty header leak, and with it, a big headache. Trust me, take my advice from personal experiance. It may not look like it at all, may have even torqued it to spec, but with that thing resting on the clamshell and not going on right, you could very well develop a leak. If you want, unbolt all the bolts except one, and loosen the last one so you can move the header out of the way to grind the clamshell.
At least, That's what I did.
Thanks for this very informative reply. We took the motor mount off last night, and are going to fix it here at work. I work for a welding/fab/machine shop
Lucky me. Anyway, we are hopefully going to be able to grind it down, and get it right this time.I have thought about taking a little more than what is needed, for the same fact of what you mentioned about it torquing towards the pass. side when I get on it. I haven't put in the motor mounts, and don't believe I will. I think I will just keep them in my parts bin, instead of returning them. They look taller, and could cause more problems.
The header is on correctly. We have cranked the car, and it has idled, and went into closed loop, and we never heard any leaks, and I didn't have any codes. Just crazy banging. I do think it was one of those "quality control" issues as someone had mentioned earlier.
I feel better knowing others have run into this problem w/ the PaceSetters as well.
Thanks for your helpful reply
Registered User
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 3,557
From: Carol Stream, Il.
350 HRSS, don't forget that besides the motor mounts, you also have the trans brace. Put the new motor mounts in. Look at it this way, if you were to put spacers between the bottom of the car and the trans brace (not a good idea) the motor would be tilted down at the back, giving the y-pipe more clearance. But instead of that you raise the front of the motor by putting the new mounts in and you will get the same effect. Or since you have the shop and know how, as in cutting and welding, go this route. Where the y-pipe hits what kind of looks like a frame, do what some have done and notch the frame. They cut out a small section and weld a new piece of metal in. Just my 2 cents, but that would be the way I would go. Don't forget to check all your wiring harnesses that are close the the headers and zip tie them out of the way. Also use some heat shielding tape if they need it. Check where the y-pipe is close to the fuel lines and protect those also. Have fun, Rick. 
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Oct 1999
Posts: 1,171
From: Henry, VA USA
350 HRSS, don't forget that besides the motor mounts, you also have the trans brace. Put the new motor mounts in. Look at it this way, if you were to put spacers between the bottom of the car and the trans brace (not a good idea) the motor would be tilted down at the back, giving the y-pipe more clearance. But instead of that you raise the front of the motor by putting the new mounts in and you will get the same effect. Or since you have the shop and know how, as in cutting and welding, go this route. Where the y-pipe hits what kind of looks like a frame, do what some have done and notch the frame. They cut out a small section and weld a new piece of metal in. Just my 2 cents, but that would be the way I would go. Don't forget to check all your wiring harnesses that are close the the headers and zip tie them out of the way. Also use some heat shielding tape if they need it. Check where the y-pipe is close to the fuel lines and protect those also. Have fun, Rick.
and if no one is willing to help, I am not going to make my car the first time for me.
As for the ypipe, I think that part will have to be removed, heated somewhat,
and dented in a little. Put a pipe over the pipe, and hit the pipe. Try to make it look more professional. As for the fuel lines, as long as you can get your fingers between the lines and the pipe, they should be alright. We have made fuel shields for them before, and would use one if needed.
I have DEI boots back to back around my starter wires, since they are so close to the headers. Everything is taped, and tie wrapped and ready to go. It's just this mount is giving us so much trouble.
Thanks for your great reply on this
Registered User
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 752
From: Double Oak TX
Ok, so here is the deal....
I sell my Hooker LTs, and replace them w/ PaceSetter LTs.
HERE is the problem. One of the primaries on the pass. side headers is against/laying on the motor mount. And when cranked, it bangs the hell out of that motor mount.
Anyone else run into this problem?? Please help!!
Thanks!
I sell my Hooker LTs, and replace them w/ PaceSetter LTs.
HERE is the problem. One of the primaries on the pass. side headers is against/laying on the motor mount. And when cranked, it bangs the hell out of that motor mount.
Anyone else run into this problem?? Please help!!
Thanks!
Right now they are back with the people who made them and I'm trying to work out a deal. If I don't hear back from then in the next couple of days, I'm calling the credit card company and see if I can get the charges removed.
What a Pain!!!! Why doesn't stuff you buy......... work??
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Oct 1999
Posts: 1,171
From: Henry, VA USA
Not that misery loves company, but I feel your pain. Only the headers I replaced my Hooker Super Comps with cost a bunch and did the same thing.
Right now they are back with the people who made them and I'm trying to work out a deal. If I don't hear back from then in the next couple of days, I'm calling the credit card company and see if I can get the charges removed.
What a Pain!!!! Why doesn't stuff you buy......... work??
Right now they are back with the people who made them and I'm trying to work out a deal. If I don't hear back from then in the next couple of days, I'm calling the credit card company and see if I can get the charges removed.
What a Pain!!!! Why doesn't stuff you buy......... work??
When I get this motor mount fixed, I will post a pic of it...
Registered User
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 12,312
From: Aurora, IL
Yeah, I have had some problems with the Pacesetter long tubes that will cause me to steer away in the future. The coating, for example, started to rust in less then a years time. Mind you, my car gets driven a few times a month, 6 months out of the year and it never sees rain or snow. Also, the EGR tube completely collided with the tranny dipstick leading me to wonder if these headers were originally designed around a manual car only! I had to take the header back out of the car, heat up the EGR fitting with a propane torch, and bend the fitting an inch towards the firewall to gain enough clearance for the EGR tube to connect to the fitting and clear the tranny dipstick.
And we won't even get started on those old paper gaskets that they used to supply with their header sets. I guess they are using better quality copper gaskets now, I guess enough people complained.
And we won't even get started on those old paper gaskets that they used to supply with their header sets. I guess they are using better quality copper gaskets now, I guess enough people complained.
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Oct 1999
Posts: 1,171
From: Henry, VA USA
Yeah, I have had some problems with the Pacesetter long tubes that will cause me to steer away in the future. The coating, for example, started to rust in less then a years time. Mind you, my car gets driven a few times a month, 6 months out of the year and it never sees rain or snow. Also, the EGR tube completely collided with the tranny dipstick leading me to wonder if these headers were originally designed around a manual car only! I had to take the header back out of the car, heat up the EGR fitting with a propane torch, and bend the fitting an inch towards the firewall to gain enough clearance for the EGR tube to connect to the fitting and clear the tranny dipstick. And we won't even get started on those old paper gaskets that they used to supply with their header sets. I guess they are using better quality copper gaskets now, I guess enough people complained.
And we won't even get started on those old paper gaskets that they used to supply with their header sets. I guess they are using better quality copper gaskets now, I guess enough people complained.I am the same way, mine hardly ever gets driven, and it will not see rain or snow. So that makes me wonder. I heard things about the coating, but I will just deal with it I guess. If I have to recoat them, at least they are easy to remove.
I actually recommended these headers to a friend of mine in NC, and they had NO problems installing the Pacesetters, and the car had EGR on it. Funny how they fit some cars, and some others they give them a lot of trouble. I will still recommend them, but w/ warnings. They were MUCH easier to actually install than the Hookers.
!!!!!!!!!
Registered User
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 607
From: North of Boston, MA
I had so many problems with my pacesetters. Thats the last time I try to save some money by going the cheaper route. My drive side header went in no problem. Then on the passenger side, the tubes wernt bent right so it was hitting the motor mount bracket and the header wasnt even tightened up. It would not have made a good seal if i tried because the motor mount bracket was pushing the bottom of the flange away from the head. So i ended up getting a new set shipped to me, and i had a similar problem, but it was not as bad. I just had to grind the motor mount bracket a tiny bit so clearence it from the primary. I also had the same problem with the EGR not hooking up, and tried to heat it up and bend it, but I couldn't get it right. I finally said **** it and blocked it off. I ended up taking way too many Sundays off from work trying to get them to fit correctly. I could have been making a bunch of money, and had kooks headers instead. But whatever... Pretty much every problem you could possibly have when doing a header install, I ended up having. (except no bolts broke off in the head thank god)
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Oct 1999
Posts: 1,171
From: Henry, VA USA
Here are 2 pics of the motor mount after we "modified" it.
http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t...S/MVC-021S.jpg
http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t...S/MVC-019S.jpg
http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t...S/MVC-021S.jpg
http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t...S/MVC-019S.jpg
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Oct 1999
Posts: 1,171
From: Henry, VA USA
I had so many problems with my pacesetters. Thats the last time I try to save some money by going the cheaper route. My drive side header went in no problem. Then on the passenger side, the tubes wernt bent right so it was hitting the motor mount bracket and the header wasnt even tightened up. It would not have made a good seal if i tried because the motor mount bracket was pushing the bottom of the flange away from the head. So i ended up getting a new set shipped to me, and i had a similar problem, but it was not as bad. I just had to grind the motor mount bracket a tiny bit so clearence it from the primary. I also had the same problem with the EGR not hooking up, and tried to heat it up and bend it, but I couldn't get it right. I finally said **** it and blocked it off. I ended up taking way too many Sundays off from work trying to get them to fit correctly. I could have been making a bunch of money, and had kooks headers instead. But whatever... Pretty much every problem you could possibly have when doing a header install, I ended up having. (except no bolts broke off in the head thank god)
Glad they sent you another set, that is great. But sounds like you had a really bad time. I am glad I don't have EGR, or I would have really been pissed. Many Sundays w/ the headers? Heck. My car has been torn down since Nov. 26 of last year. Though, it was much more than headers done. But I do know the frustration.
Thanks for replying and letting me know....
Registered User
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 747
From: Baton Rouge, LA
Poly mounts arent part of his problem, he was hitting the part of the mount that is directly bolted to the block, putting a new mount in wont move it any further or closer to his header
Registered User
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 3,705
From: Kansas
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Oct 1999
Posts: 1,171
From: Henry, VA USA
Well, actually, I am not a he
And that is correct, after looking, poly mounts could actually make the problem worse. I am just going to keep them for any future need instead of returning them. They were about $25 per side. But they would be a real PIA to install.
We actually did get the modified motor mount in last night, and it worked great. NO problems. Fired up, and no more bang bang under there!
I will get a pic of it, and get it loaded up sometime today.