Talk about a coating that sucks! Jet Hot is right up there. And, its hard to get them to cover their products and recoat them when they rust through. I went that route. I had Hookers before, but it come out cheaper for me to sell the Hookers, and get PaceSetters, before I spent over $400 in getting the Hookers recoated, and shipping back and forth. And that was w/ Jet Hots *discount*.

I was surprised at this issue, since 99% of the people I know that buy these don't have any install problems. My car is known being the install hater though.

I hope to be able to resolve this issue soon, and easily.

 

thats the problem with pacesetters....they are very inconsistent with their products. their quality control sucks! some people put them on in a breeze, others have the collectors hitting the bottom of the car heavily, and some people have our problem. to inconsistent

 

I would get the set made that weren't correct.

The driver's side does hit the floor board as well. Guess that needs to be dented more as well.

Anyone think poly motor mounts would help or hurt this issue?

 

If your current motor mounts have alot of mileage on them and are worn out, it would be a wise choice to replace them. That is usually the culprit in clearance issues with long tube headers.

 

I am ordering some Energy Suspension mounts today from Summit. And will go that route first.

The car has 97k on it.

Thanks!

 

97K.. I would say they are about due for a swap.

 

Yep, I agree.

I saved some shipping charges by getting a local auto store to order them for me and have them tomorrow. I look forward to getting them installed. According to the directions on the Summit website though, they don't look to fun to install.

It says in a note that Energy Susp. stuff restores the engine to its original height....would that make it lean up against the header primary even more???

 

I'm not sure new motor mounts will affect where the header is hitting. From the picture your headers are hitting the bracket that is bolted to the engine, not the part that is bolted to the frame. You will have to grind that bracket down, fortunately it doesn't look like it needs much grinding and you don't have to grind in a way that will compromise the structural integrity.

 

Maybe I can just take out the entire pass. side motor mount and grind on it, slip it back in and see how it fits. How does that sound?

It would possibly keep me from having to take out the pass. side header again??

 

Well, it looks like I will be able to slip the motor mount out w/o removing the header. We'll be doing it tonight. Thanks for all the replies.

 

I'm glad to hear it's working ouy for you. Yeah, sometimes you'll run into small problems with the Pacesetters, my Y-pipe banged on the bottom off the car. But I worked around that problem. I bought them because my car is lowered and wanted the most ground clearence I could get with longtubes. They do have nice thick flanges at the heads and the welding was very nice also. Besides the one small problem with the y-pipe they fit like a glove and find them to be a nice quality header. If some of you run into a problem that is easily fixable, but would rather call the parts junk, maybe you weren't cut out to modify cars.

 

How did you fix your ypipe problem?? Did you dent the pipe more, or wrap a little exhaust wrap around it?

Thanks for the post. I agree, they did fit like a glove, and when cranked, I didn't hear any leaks...so far...that is.

 

It looks like you wont need to grind much, since that portion of the mount is bolted directly to the block and doesnt flex in relation to your header you should only need to provide a minimum 3-4mm clearance, I would personally give it 10mm clearance just to be on the safe side.

 

Yeah, we are going to mark it with a silver pen, and take off as much as it will allow, without hurting the structural integrity.

I hope to get that all fixed tonight, so the motor doesn't have to be jacked up for too long.

 

From personal experiance with the energy suspension motor mounts, it's gonna rub JUST as bad.

Remember, you're motor's restored to a higher height, but you're clamshell's much higher also It's all directly proportional.

You're still going to need the grinder. Especially when you suddenly hit the throttle. The motor twists towards the passanger side. The clamshell doesn't move, but your motor does. And with the motor comes the pass. primary slamming down on that clamshell again

Think it through, take your time, and grind it down to make SURE you eliminate the problem. Don't do a half decent job no matter HOW much it bites, because you'll regret it so much more in the end.

==================

P.S. I would also unbolt all the header bolts, because you may not have realised it, but you could have put them on wrong without even knowing it. Later on, you're gonna develop one nasty header leak, and with it, a big headache. Trust me, take my advice from personal experiance. It may not look like it at all, may have even torqued it to spec, but with that thing resting on the clamshell and not going on right, you could very well develop a leak. If you want, unbolt all the bolts except one, and loosen the last one so you can move the header out of the way to grind the clamshell.

At least, That's what I did.