Well the leg is better, I'm walking around on it!! Anyway, after putting in three LONG 5 hour days I'm ready to slide the LT1 and 700R4 under the car and bolt it in. (I pulled the V-6 from the bottom since I had to change the suspension to the Z-28 one anyway. Kinda hard to believe this mess was a running V-6 Camaro three days ago!) Now the question is, when all this is hooked up, since I had to change the computer from the 94 V-6 to the 93 LT1 do I have to change the ignition switch so the Pass-Key, (or VATS) will work? I have the complete 93 Z-28 so if I need to I will just change the whole steering column and have the Ignition switch (and key) that was with the LT1 originally. Also, does anyone know anything about the wiring that comes in under the dash? There are three connectors, they are the same connectors for both cars (one black, one blue, one white) but they don't have the same number of wires on one, and another has the same number of wires but not in the same postions. (I haven't studied the wiring diagrams yet, or even looked to see if the wires are the same color. I just noticed the differences when I took them out.) Is the difference possibly due to the 94 being an automatic and the 93 a stick? (I can see where the stick wouldn't have as many wires going inside the car.)

 

i know if you wanna get rid of it totally I have a bypass module I could sell you. It uses those 3 wires and thats it

 

I bought a module from some guy for my 88 Camaro when I did a TBI to TPI conversion and needed to by-pass the VATS. If the hertz signal is the same as the 3rd Gen, then you need a 30hz signal. Find some way to temproarily solve this and you will be ok, I did. Made a board with sheet metal and 29 pieces of tape. One stroke per second made a 30hz signal, and It only needs it when cranking

 

i think it needs 50 hz

 

If it's anything like my 96's setup, you can measure the resistance of the resistor in the key and cut the vat's wires in the column and place the resistor across the 2 vat's wires.