LT1 Based Engine Tech 1993-1997 LT1/LT4 Engine Related

Panhand Rod

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Old Mar 11, 2004 | 12:58 PM
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FormulaLT1Power's Avatar
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Panhand Rod

What does this thing actually do? Is it worth while to get like a SLP one?
Old Mar 11, 2004 | 01:07 PM
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Panhard rods control lateral placement of the rear end in the chassis. The stock panhard rod is weak when it comes to driving the car hard. Using a weak panhard rod develops rear end lateral location problems based on too much deflection. This can make the car feel loose in the rear.
Old Mar 11, 2004 | 01:07 PM
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I don't really think so, just have the one you got boxed in.
Old Mar 11, 2004 | 05:08 PM
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An aftermarket tubular panhard rod will generally include polyurethane bushings, which will limit deflection under hard cornering loads. An aftermarket tubular will most likely be lighter than the stock stamped steel piece, while being stronger, and less susceptible to bending. "Boxing" the stock arm will not solve the soft bushing issue, and will add unneccesary weight.

Some hardcore Auto-X fans do not like the poly bushings, because the increased stiffness can cause "bind" in the rod under extreme displacement of the axle assembly. That problem can be solved by making at least one end of the rod a "spherical rod end". That will increase harshness and noise though.
Old Mar 11, 2004 | 10:05 PM
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I installed a BMR panhard at the same time I installed BMR LCAs. Together they make the rear suspension much more predictable. I think its definitely worthwhile.
Old Mar 11, 2004 | 10:23 PM
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So should I look at getting one of these for straight line performance if I'm not interested in something like auto-x ?
Old Mar 11, 2004 | 10:25 PM
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Yes it will still help keep the rear planted under the center of the car during hard accelteration.
Old Mar 12, 2004 | 01:07 PM
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Again, i think aftermarkets are a waste, sure boxing the stamped steal adds weight, but what are we talking, 2-3 pounds max. If anything that weight will only make your car more nuetrally balenced. You sure as hell wont see a difference in ETs or even lap times (depending on your passion) with 3 pound difference. I boxed mine, total cost zero. JMHO though
Old Mar 12, 2004 | 01:10 PM
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Originally posted by Aaronh
Again, i think aftermarkets are a waste, sure boxing the stamped steal adds weight, but what are we talking, 2-3 pounds max. If anything that weight will only make your car more nuetrally balenced. You sure as hell wont see a difference in ETs or even lap times (depending on your passion) with 3 pound difference. I boxed mine, total cost zero. JMHO though
if you are going all out though every pound adds up..
Old Mar 12, 2004 | 01:11 PM
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Originally posted by Aaronh
Again, i think aftermarkets are a waste, sure boxing the stamped steal adds weight, but what are we talking, 2-3 pounds max. If anything that weight will only make your car more nuetrally balenced. You sure as hell wont see a difference in ETs or even lap times (depending on your passion) with 3 pound difference. I boxed mine, total cost zero. JMHO though
Different strokes for different folks.....
Old Mar 12, 2004 | 01:17 PM
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Originally posted by Injuneer
An aftermarket tubular panhard rod will generally include polyurethane bushings, which will limit deflection under hard cornering loads. An aftermarket tubular will most likely be lighter than the stock stamped steel piece, while being stronger, and less susceptible to bending. "Boxing" the stock arm will not solve the soft bushing issue, and will add unneccesary weight.

Some hardcore Auto-X fans do not like the poly bushings, because the increased stiffness can cause "bind" in the rod under extreme displacement of the axle assembly. That problem can be solved by making at least one end of the rod a "spherical rod end". That will increase harshness and noise though.
Good post. Just one thing. I have a double rod ended panahrd bar with the premium $30/ea QA1's. It is dead quiet and doesn't have any effect on ride at all. I have had rod ended lca's and they will impact ride. Just visualize what happens when you hit a bump in the road at speed and it become clear. Quite a bit of the force goes through the lca's-hardly any through the phb.
Old Mar 12, 2004 | 01:18 PM
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Originally posted by 96ta(nick)
if you are going all out though every pound adds up..
Agreed, all out is huge money though, boxing is a bang for the buck mod. The only way I'd buy one myself is if I found a crazy good deal on one, then I donate my boxed rod to a friend.
Old Mar 12, 2004 | 01:48 PM
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Huge money? My aluminum PHB cost $20. Add good rod ends (like QA1's), spacers and the total comes to around $90. Lighter, stiffer than stock and dead quiet. The handling improvement is very noticable.

http://www.jonaadland.com/Z28/Mods/PHB/AluminumPHB.html
Old Mar 12, 2004 | 01:56 PM
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Originally posted by RedHottG2
So should I look at getting one of these for straight line performance if I'm not interested in something like auto-x ?
If you could only get one for now, I would say get some LCA's.
Old Mar 12, 2004 | 01:56 PM
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Boxing your stock rod won't do anything for the ends, which are rubber. I replaced mine because these rubber ends caused the rear end to shift from one side to the other. Sometimes when the car was parked, it caused the rear tires to be shifted to the left, sometimes to the right, other times, not at all. I went with the spherical ends. This made a world of difference and at about $100, it hardly broke the bank, and for once, I felt like I had some control of the rear of the car. Also, if you ever decide to lower the car, chance are you will need an adjustable rod.

Last edited by greensmoke; Mar 12, 2004 at 01:58 PM.



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