It will rattle and make all kinds of noise I had to cut out a peice with a hack saw took for ever lol

 

I had nearly everything go wrong...from the start in getting supplies, to my engine not wanting to jack, broken starter, wrong parts shipped, RTV seal problems which led to one side having RTV on it, the other side not (took 40 minutes to get one gasket on while the RTV stuck to everything and was drying up)....

But, despite my aweful luck, I made it through, and to this day have no leaks, bolts haven't backed out (just go thru a few heat cycles first - it REALLY worked for me), and all is well. Search for my posts (about 5 a day) back in January for more info/concerns of what you might run into.

Just know that whatever you need help with, this board is here, and even at 3, 4 in the morning - there may be someone who will check your posts ever 5 mins until you tell them everything is all good. Birdman7389 and dover179 were awesome in sticking with me through my troubles.

 

haha Yes it's a LOT different. You have 18* heads, headers are a different design, etc etc. If you tried to leave the plugs and steering shaft in on an LT1 you would have four broken plugs and one majorly scratched up header.

 

Well, it seems that it would be easier to slip the drivers side header in through the top and the passenger side through the bottom. Were probably going to be able to get the car above 24" to the ground... my friend has a jack that jacks damn high.

My main concern is just the air pump and egr valve. I have the EGR plates... but I heard the air pump needs to be cut out?

 

The AIR Pump itself does not need to be cut out. The pump is held on by three bolts, mine disconnected rather easily. However, what you do cut out is the U-shaped pipe that goes around the front of the oil pan.

 

I didn't cut that long u-pipe. I just bent it and used some power and pulled it out w/out any problems. I must say that eliminating the EGR, AIR, and AC really cleaned up the engine bay though, so its worth it.

 

Yeah, there's 2 bolts that hold it to the block, but one of mine was rounded too much, so cutting was the best option. Service manual suggests cutting it for easier removal and cutting the new one for easier installation. AIR cleaned things up a lot in my engine bay, EGR didn't make any difference for me since I only removed the valve on the rear of the intake, not the solenoid and vaccum lines on the side. I've been thinking about removing the A/C myself.

 

When installing from the top, does the dipstick need to come out? I usually see valve covers, alternator, steering linkage, sometimes starter mentioned, but no dipstick.

 

I took mine out.

 

yes going in from the top or bottom u deffinatly need to take the dipstick out, i went in from the top, and i did have to take a piece off the transmition with the cutting wheel, but i didnt touch the starter. dont forget to take the oil pressure sending switch out from above the oil filter (only after draining the oil of corse ) i cracked mine and didnt realize it till i started it and drove it with oil spewing out (mine is a 93, i think the switch is different on later years so im not sure if it needs to come out or not) my Y pipe was the hardest part for me, it still rattles against the crossmember even after removing it and adjusting it 2 times

 

I pulled my dipstick out becasue the little bracket that holds it was broken. I replaced it w/ a lokar braided dipstick tube. Looks good now!! I just drove the car today...my collector hits the heat shield alittle making a slight rattle..you guys think it will make the knock sensor pick up knock and retard the timing? I can't really get on it yet because i am still breaking in the new clutch. So I can't tell yet, but it doesn't seem to have any more power than the shorties did...is that normal?

 

I only moved the dipstick and it went right in from the bottom, I did not even have to move the airconditioning lines like everyone else. By the way, you will not notice a difference in power until you hit about 4000 rpm and up. According to the dyno I lost 4 hp until I hit 4000 rpm then it shot up quick to a to a highest gain of 18 hp at 5200rpm on a completely stock internal motor. Long tube are for high revving power not torque. Keep your motor powered up in the "power band" and you will notice a difference. Have fun with them.
Steve

 

Well thats good to know. i guess it should match the cam pretty well then!! I already love the headers anyways. Best header install I have had in a long time, plug access and looks are also much better than the Edelbrock shorties that were previously on the car. Needless to say I am very pleased w/ the headers and would recomend them to anybody.

 

Thanks for the info guys. I was hoping there would be a way around having to remove the dipstick since its seams like a real pain, but oh well....

 

Removing it is not a pain at all - don't be aggressive - but be forceful, as it wont come out easily the first time. I was even able to get it back in within 15 seconds magically. However, after I pulled it again, I was aggressive with it since it put up with my beating the first time, and ended up bending it on the ground till I thought it looked good. Then I lost the screw and had to find one that would fit the block. Wiggles a litte now, but it's in > : - >