I'm installing a new opti in a 96 LT1 stock Corvette (hey, I have a '69 Camaro, so that makes it ok to ask about it's cousin, right?) and have some questions that are not addressed in Helm's.

1. Water Pump gaskets - go on dry or use permatex?

2. Water Pump Bolts - do they penetrate into water passages where
I need silicone or some other sealer?

3. Where the opti "gear" (part that fits over the dowel pin) goes thru the timing cover, I'm not sure if there is a seal there. Shouldn't the metal opti part that sets inside the timing cover be lubricated with some sort of grease? If there is a $2 seal in there, now is the time to replace it.

4. Routing the new spark plug wires, especially on the drivers side. What is the easiest way? I have the tensioner pulley out, but it still looks formidable. Removing the inner fender skirts looks like it would help. I'd prefer not to mess with that whole Alternator/AC/Power Steering assembly.

5. What have I missed? I like wrenching on it, but this is getting tedious, and I don't want to go in there again anytime soon (although I totally cleaned and lubed the damper so it will come off easier, if there is a next time).

 

Got it cleaned up and more light in there - I see the seal. Can I pop it off and replace or do I need to remove the timing cover?

 

You can remove the opti seal in the timing cover without removing the cover.

I like to use a thin film of RTV on the water pump gaskets.

Use some thread sealant on the bolts. They do go into water.

The accessory bracket is different on the Y-body, so I don't know what wire routing problems you have. (this is an f-body forum, remember? )

 

Changing the opti on a C4 is no fun (working from the top) comparing it to an F body due to the direction that the hood opens. Also when working underneath there isnt as much room in front of the engine as the F body either.

This would be a good time to change some seals. Fel-pro sells a timing cover seal kit for like $15.00.

Opti seal replacement is easy, just pop out and tap new one in.

Water pump drive seal may be a little harder to get out, I have used a sheet rock screw with sharp point, tap screw into metal portion enough to pierce a hole, then slightly thread screw into it, grab screw with some vice grips and yank seal out.

Now it is time to do a "search" on this site.. If water pump seal is installed incorrectly it will leak like crazy. This seal doesnt just tap in, you need to make sure the oil sealing part of the seal stays facing inward to the motor.

 

Thanks for the reply. Just found out about the Fel-Pro seal kit for the timing cover seals & gasket. Now I'm thinking I should just pull off the timing cover and (1) at least inspect the timing gear & chain, (2) replace the seals on the bench instead of in the car...probably do a better job.

Thanks for the heads up on the small seal. I'll be careful.

 

If you pull the timing cover, good chance you will damage the front of the pan gasket. If it has less than 100,000 miles I wouldnt worry about the timing chain, but thats just me.

 

Thanks - that's good advice. I decided to just replace the opti-cam seal and leave the water pump alone...it still looks good. Also left the timing cover in place...I had a bad experience trying to fix an oil leak at the timing cover/oil pan.

It's time to get back on the road.