Well, In November I replaced my opti and waterpump, this was shortly after replacing my plugs and wires too. Last weekend I believed I got a bad batch of gas because shortly after filling up the car started to miss and sputter badly. However, the car didn't get any better after replacing the fuel filter and replacing the gas. I took the car to a shop who said that the distributor isn't firing to the # 8 cylinder, however it appears that the rest of the cylinders are firing fine. I am kinda upser because I replaced the entire opti only 4 months ago. However, last time when it went out the car wouldn't even run or start, now it runs but has no power and misses really bad due to running on only 7 cylinders. So I think that now maybe the cap and rotor is bad. So I have 3 options
1. Replace the cap and rotor with a rebuilt one locally for about 150 bucks
2. Replace the entire opti again with a new unit from Jason Cromer for 330 bucks.
3. Or buy the delteq system.
My question is this, is the delteq system worth it? I am amazed that the opti is acting up after only 4 months after being replaced. I read that the delteq system uses the optical pickup of the opti, with my current problems, does it seem that it is probably the cap/rotor and the other part of the opti is fine? The opti has not even 3000 miles on it. Im debating on going the delteq route would be the best investment for me. I am very worried about putting a rebuilt cap/rotor in and it lasting only a few months again. The GM new replacement cap/rotor didnt last long, unless the entire opti is screwed. What would everyone suggest? Also, there are no check engine lights on and the computer is not throwing any codes. I need to make a decision fast because I need my car back on the road. Also, 1 more question, would the delteq system affect emissions or make me fail? i am in virginia and and need to pass emmisions. Thanks for the advice, sorry for the long post.

 

Are you sure the plug wire to that one cylinder isn't defective or not entirely plugged in -- I suggest measuring the resistance of the wire end-to-end?

I can't see the optical section of the Opti-Spark causing a problem to a particular cylinder only.
Usually, a problem with the high-voltage section (cap and rotor) of the Opti-Spark doesn't cause any trouble-codes.

If the problem is in the cap and rotor, the Delteq should solve the problem.

Tom Piper

 

I would replace the #8 plug and wire first. It's more likely that one of them is the problem. I would stiull recomend the Delteq system as a permanent fix to future problems. I love mine.

 

I'm def going to check out the #8 plug and wire myself, i trust the shop I took it to but ya always gotta doublecheck. The plugs and wires were replaced at the end of October and the opti was replaced mid november. I know that just because it's new doesn't mean it can't break but I would hope that those MSD wires would have lasted longer than 4 1/2 months.

 

lol i dumbassed it one time, after installin headers i didnt plug on a couple wires all the way and while test driving i heard tickin and it was misfiring (thought it was exhaust leak) no, it was the arc'ing sound from the spark plugs not plugged in all the way , plugged em in and it was fine.....check yours lol

 

I just put a delteq on my car after it was acting up big time. The delteq red led light showed a good opti signal, but is still running horrible. Replace plugs, wires, and found a missing pushrod which was launched because the polylock lost it's grip. Fortunately, I found the pushrod laying near the roller lifters against the block, undamaged and in perfect condition, just amazing! After reinstalling, it ran great for a day, powerful as hell, and then the same problem came back the next day. Sputtering or up and down idle, total lack of power at other rpm. Really weird.

I just took the whole front end of the motor apart this past week, including the opti. The opti didn't look too good inside. Most of the parts were rusted. What a piece of **** this thing is. Even that little wheel with the 360 vents was warped.

The timing chain was what surprised me. I am amazed it didn't come off. It was very loose. Should have replaced it back in '99 with a double roller. But, back then nobody knew you could actually use a double roller chain on an LT1, just the extreme duty chain.

Anyway, I have decided to switch to a vented opti, double roller chain, and electric water pump. Problem is the ****ing pin coming out of the camshaft is too short. Thinking about welding a bolt on the pin and then pull it out somehow. If that don't work, the cam will have to come out.

I like the delteq because the wires are very easy to get to. With the supercharger on the car, the wires going to the opti are just too tight. I am pretty confident that the new timing chain and other parts will fix the problem for good.

 

I keep hearing about the pin out of the cam being to short, i have never seen this problem, what cam does it occur and what year vehicles?

 

I just did the delteq to my system. I changed the opti less then 2000 miles ago. It was missing bad. After the Delteq the car ran so smooth it was unbelieveable. Even if it was as unreliable as the opti i would recommend it. The easy of install and the ablity to run the wires the way I wanted is worth it to me.

Check write up here for more details. Last reply to the thread.

http://www.fastlouis.com/forums/view...14240&start=15

 

For the early style unvented opti's, the pin protrudes out of the camshaft approx. 0.30". For the vented opti, its supposed to be around 0.620". I had installed the hotcam about 5 years ago and it comes with the pin ready for the vented opti. Back then I just threw everything together and hammered the pin in to get shorter. Now it has to come back out. Other camshafts from like comp cams come with a generic style pin which has to be cut to the correct length. In any case, the pin length must be correct.