Opinions on valve springs and pushrods
Opinions on valve springs and pushrods
I'm debating installing new springs and pushrods. My hunch is the crane springs which have been in there for two seasons and the pushrods which have simply been replaced as they have bent/broken could be a problem for me...
This is just a hunch. The current pushrods are 3/8, should I go to 5/16th?
Is there a good recommended brand? I have heard from multiple sources that many of the aftermarket pushrod products are just the stock GM products rebranded and marked up. What about a manufacturer of springs to go with my 1.6 roller rockers? I have been using the crane products but is there a better brand at this current time?
The rest of the motor is a 383, and the heads were originally by CNC Inc. Do I need any other parts when these are replaced? Gaskets? Valve Seals?
Is there any trick to a proper installation?
This is just a hunch. The current pushrods are 3/8, should I go to 5/16th?
Is there a good recommended brand? I have heard from multiple sources that many of the aftermarket pushrod products are just the stock GM products rebranded and marked up. What about a manufacturer of springs to go with my 1.6 roller rockers? I have been using the crane products but is there a better brand at this current time?
The rest of the motor is a 383, and the heads were originally by CNC Inc. Do I need any other parts when these are replaced? Gaskets? Valve Seals?
Is there any trick to a proper installation?
Big subjects, to be sure. Just one brief comment for now. I assume youmean you are now using a 5/16" PR and are thinking about 3/8". I did consider going with a 3/8" this year, but there are some clearance issues (at least on my setup) and so decided against it. It's likely not needed unless one is using very high spring pressures anyway. As far as springs, I have used both Comp and Manley for years. Same with PR's, I have no idea who makes them.
Rich Krause
Rich Krause
The Isky SP series springs are some of my personal favorites. Manley, Comp, PSI and Erson all make springs I've used as well. Which one for which job just depends on the motor and what I'm going to be doing with it. I think they all have their place.
As one of our prominent board members is fond of saying, "Everything is a spring". Its just a metter of how much "spring" you can tolerate and as Rich stated, the spring pressure and "springiness" of the pushrod are directly related. I prefer to err on the side of having a little more strength in the pushrod even if that means more weight. It's on the slow side of the rocker so its not really an issue. We just want the more-accurate valve timing a stiffer pushrod gives us.
Are you using guideplates?
If you are then you're going to need a hardened PR. I like Comp and Manton for pushrods.
When were the valve guides and seals last replaced? If this is a track motor then it may very likely need a new valve job, guides, seals, etc..
-Mindgame
As one of our prominent board members is fond of saying, "Everything is a spring". Its just a metter of how much "spring" you can tolerate and as Rich stated, the spring pressure and "springiness" of the pushrod are directly related. I prefer to err on the side of having a little more strength in the pushrod even if that means more weight. It's on the slow side of the rocker so its not really an issue. We just want the more-accurate valve timing a stiffer pushrod gives us.
Are you using guideplates?
If you are then you're going to need a hardened PR. I like Comp and Manton for pushrods.
When were the valve guides and seals last replaced? If this is a track motor then it may very likely need a new valve job, guides, seals, etc..
-Mindgame
Hmmmmmm. Food for thought. 'm just tired of breaking parts and having weird stuff not work.
Heck, I got 12 mpg last week on the highway driving back from the track. * 1/2 gallons to go 103 miles. Something isn't right.
Heck, I got 12 mpg last week on the highway driving back from the track. * 1/2 gallons to go 103 miles. Something isn't right.
I would stick with the 5/16" pushrods, no sense in going to a 3/8, unless you are bending them. As for springs, I use the CC 987-16's, and have never had a problem, and I ran a CC306 cam with them for a long while, and now use the same springs with my turbo setup.
Jose
Jose
Actually, ( brain fart) , the current pushrods are 3/8 and hardened. I bent two and broke one last year. The motor does drive me to and from the track ( about 200-400 miles per week) in warm weather.
How strong do the springs need to be? The cam is something like a 236-242 from More Performance.
How strong do the springs need to be? The cam is something like a 236-242 from More Performance.
I'm running the GM847 cam and using the K-motion K-800 springs, my initial impression of them is good, I'll see when I get some miles on em (only about 600 or so on em now). But my valvetrain set-up is as follows,
Comp R lifters
Trickflow cm 5/16s 1 peice .080 wthick cold formed pushrods
comp magnum steel 1.6 RRs
AFR guideplates
ARP 3/8s studs
K-motion K-800 springs w/tit 10 deg retainers
Manley raceflow valves.
Comp R lifters
Trickflow cm 5/16s 1 peice .080 wthick cold formed pushrods
comp magnum steel 1.6 RRs
AFR guideplates
ARP 3/8s studs
K-motion K-800 springs w/tit 10 deg retainers
Manley raceflow valves.
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racecarz28
General 1967-2002 F-Body Tech
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Mar 30, 2015 09:55 PM



