So far i have Pacesetter LTs with the AIR hookup on each side (mom called the order in when i was at work-might just plug it off or hook it up for now) I opted for the non-coated but plan on using header wrap and/or some high temp paint a buddy was telling me about.
The headers have 3inch collectors iam assuming and i plan on buying the universal x-pipe kit from Summit or Jegs then bolting on a pair of flowmaster delta force race mufflers.
Does this sound like a good setup? Iam going to make it 2.5inch from headers on back unless someone says otherwise. Do i need to buy reducers for the headers so the 2.5inch will bolt up or how does that work?

Any opinions/recommendations welcome!

 

yes you will need reducers 3" to 2.5". you will also need some extensions for the x-pipe. the tubing it comes with is not long enough to reach the x due to how far the pacesetters are apart.

i would also suggest ditching the header wrap. its not to good for the headers as far as rust is concerned and can get soaked in fuel and oil and start a fire.

as far as the AIR is concerned, just leave it. its not hurting you.

the high temp paint has never worked for me. maybe it has been my fault due to improper prep but it always flakes off pretty quickly.

heres my x-pipe setup at the bottom of the page. http://community.webshots.com/album/313663874SWUPce/4

 

Nice motor you have there

Never thought of the header wrap being a fire hazard before, thanks
So you suggest just leaving the headers the way they are (uncoated black)?
Heard any good/bad reviews on the mufflers iam wanting to use? (Delta force flowmasters)
Trying to find a set that will conserve some space as well under the car and am trying to decide if something like what you have would be better than traditional style mufflers.

Thanks for your reply(s)

 

im not sure what to tell you about the headers. maybe the paint will work with the proper prep. i wish i would have just opted for the coated ones.

im not sure about the delta forces, i have no exp with them. i do know they are a bit more expensive than most bullit style mufflers.
i have moroso spiralfow's and love em and they only run around $60 shipped.

heres a link to a setup like what your talking about. http://web.camaross.com/forums/showt...ghlight=x-pipe

 

I would ditch the header wrap and paint them with a quality header paint.

 

Might give the header paint a try...

Here is the header reducer kit Iam going with but i have a question http://store.summitracing.com/defaul...1&autoview=sku

I see they also have reducer kits that have o2 bungs on them. Will i be ok using the o2 bungs that are already on the collectors?
Should be my last question there...

 

Texas Speed sells a true dual X-pipe exhaust made for LS1's that you can convert to your LT1. It has flanges at the front, X, mufflers then turndowns if I'm not mistaken. I just ordered one, $440 with shipping. Not cheap but it was worth it for me to have something pretty close to fitting out of the box.

 

Yeah, definately don't use header wrap on a street car. The pipes will corrode faster and it's a fire hazard. You can always send them to a coater! Coatings will help make a bit more power by keeping exhaust gas temps (and velocity) up in the primaries. For a street car the coatings have a lot of other advantages, they help prevent corrosion and keep underhood temps down. Underhood temps are hell on everything. You can try some good paints but I don't think anything compares to a "real" coating especially for durability.

As for the collectors on back, I would talk with an exhaust shop. You need someone to fab the pipes up. If you're just doing dumps underneath the car it's not very difficult. Request mandrel bends. Use mufflers that suit your needs but maintains enough ground clearance. Summit has a $30 x-pipe if you're just going to use aluminized pipe. I'm in CA right now and don't recall the p/n

I made my true dual exhaust with x-pipe, bullet mufflers and tips for a lot less than $440

 

Although the $440 kit would be nice, i dont really want to spend that kind of money when I could 'do it myself' alot cheaper but with more work.
I wish I would have ordered the coated headers but at the time I was more concerned with ordering them before I spent the money on something else I guess
Theres a sticker on one of the headers that says a high temp paint will help header life or something, but i thought the black paint on them is supposed to be just that already?

Would it be cheaper to buy an Xpipe then just go to a exhaust shop and have them fab up the rest then it would be to buy the xpipe KIT and add on extensions etc for it?

Thanks for all the replies!!!

 

I already tried that with a Summit universal X-pipe, some bullets and turndowns. I didn't like how it was looking at the exhaust shop, the guy was going to have to do quite a bit of work to make the headers mate to the X correctly. At that point I decided it was worth it to me to spend some extra money, get something made specifically for the car that will fit like it should and tuck better for some more ground clearance.

 

Here is a parts list the header and exhaust project I am currently working on.

ARP-400-1201 - Header Fasteners, Bolts, External 12-Point, Stainless Steel
CEI-109010 - Oxygen Sensor Extension Harness, 12 in., 4-Terminal Flat In-line Connector, Universal
FLO-325408 - Muffler, Delta Force 40 Series, 2 1/2 in. Inlet/2 1/2 in. Outlet, Steel, Aluminized
HOK-11040HKR - Header Reducers, 3-Bolt Flange, 3 in. Inlet, 2.5 in. Outlet, Steel
HOK-2231-1HKR - Headers, Super Comp., Full Length, Steel, Ceramic Coated, Chevy/Pontiac, Camaro/Firebird, 5.7L
PHP-66031 - Exhaust Gaskets, Header, Aluminum, D Port, Chevy, Small Block, LT1
SUM-642125 - Crossover Pipe, X-Style, 16-Gauge Steel, Aluminized, 2.5 in. Diameter, Universal
SUM-G1590HS - Collector Bolts 9/16" Stainless Steel

I am hoping to have it finished this evening. This is fairly similar to what you are looking to do; I will post a wav file for you to listen to ounce I get it finished. I will also post a few pictures so you can see how the x-pipe worked. The only tubing I needed was what came with the x-pip, and that was taking it all the way to the front of the real wheels.