Car hasn't been running right since I did the heads and the cam. I keep thinking it's my valve adjustment, but I've tried every adjustment procedure, and have done every possible load. 1/8, 1/4, 1/2, 3/4, etc...

I've had the car run good TWICE. And I didn't notice until today what the difference was.

I would pull the intake elbow and unplug the connector running to the MAF, rubber intake elbow, and coolant temp sensor.

I'd adjust the valves turning the crank by hand, then just put the intake elbow on, plug in ONLY the MAF.

I would start it, it would run perfect, rev, etc... So I'd shut it down and plug everything back in and bolt everything down.

Then it would run like a dog.

So I went out and adjusted the valves to a little over 1/4 lash, left the coolant temp sensor unplugged, and the car idles PERFECT and revs, but only for a minute or so. Then it'll start running weird.

I'm not getting any codes, but I'm guessing that the water temp sensor on the water pump has gone bad.

Am I on to something here?? With it plugged in, the car will just jump between 700 and 1000 rpm, and I have to keep giving it a little gas to keep it from stalling.

Pulled all my plugs and they were fouled with fuel.

I was thinking it might be the opti but after noticing such a huge difference with that sensor unplugged, I'm thinking that's the cause.

 

A properly functioning engine temp sensor is crutial to correct fuel delivery.

 

Put a 12 dollar advance auto gp sorenson on the car today, and it's running. I can leave it plugged in and it's fine. I still have some popping at WOT though. Maybe now I'll go ahead and give the valves another 1/4 turn, since I'm sitting at 1/4 past zero lash now.

I never thought something would go wrong at the same time I did this. Seemed like it HAD to be something that I did recently (valve lash, intake leak, etc...).