LT1 Based Engine Tech 1993-1997 LT1/LT4 Engine Related

Only Got 14.1 in 1/4 mile...dissapointed

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Old Mar 22, 2004 | 06:09 PM
  #31  
TMorgan800's Avatar
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Just took it out for a spin.
Seems rough when it first starts up. Then smoothes out. Nothing out of the ordinary... it seems like. I think its running ok.
I checked all the wires. None of them look burnt or cut etc.. all are going to the plugs securely...
Do you think the opti is on its way out?? Not perfect, but not bad yet.... or going cruddy on me.
Also, after running it hard in short bursts and let off.. it seems to POP and or BACKFIRE... is that normal.. its not terribly loud, just sounds quasi funny when it unwinds......... normal... ??
Bad injectors??? not big enough???
--Troy
Old Mar 22, 2004 | 06:38 PM
  #32  
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Sounds like at the least, you have bad collector gaskets. That won't cause your horrible times, but it is an issue and its causing the backfiring. (I'm guessing the popping is coming from underneath and not from the intake correct?) Do you have a laptop you can hook up to the car? If not, I'm sure there are plenty of f-bod buds in your area and would be willing to help you out and get a few datamaster logs. That would atleast give us some more info to go on. Are you loosing any coolant at all? The reason I ask is my car was having the same problem as yours and the waterpump was leaking *sloooowly* onto the opti causing it to run like crap. It wasn't enough to make a puddle b/c it would just fly right off of the belt but once it was on the rack, I found it. BTW, the stock injectors are fine with your setup. Other things you can do is a fuel pressure check and see what kind of fuel pressure you have. While your at it, since they're so cheap, go ahead and replace the fuel filter. Good luck and keep posting!
Old Mar 22, 2004 | 07:07 PM
  #33  
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Its possible that your valves are too tight. You said whoever did them used the "spin the rod until it gets tight" method which is wrong. To get to zero lash you should use tighten until there is no up and down movement then and then tighten an additional amount as spec'd by whatever lifters you have. I previously adjusted mine using that spin method which resulted in them being way too tight and lost serious top end power.

I spoke to a friend who builds motors for LS1Motorsports and he said that by tightening them until the push rod dont spin gets you way past zero lash. I readjusted them like he said and the top end power was back, granted it is noiser than what I has them set to, but I'd rather have the power.

-Tony
Old Mar 22, 2004 | 07:34 PM
  #34  
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I would also say your valves are not timed correctly. Valve timing is critical, and the knowledge of valve timing is even more critical. The guy that did your valve timing does'nt seem like he knows how to adjust for zero lash very well. Get it done correctly and it WILL make the difference for all that lost horsepower.
Old Mar 22, 2004 | 09:57 PM
  #35  
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Hey, finally some fresh ideas. Thanks for the advice...that sounds more like what might be wrong..
I honestly doubt i have a missing plug wire...or wrong sequence...I dont know much about HOW to do the work to the car but I do understand what is going on with the car.
The waterpump is new.. it got replaced about 4k before the rebuild..
The mechanic working on the car said " I have a tougher time with the valves on the roller-rockers " .. it took him two tries to get it right... first time he said it was having compression problems.... and it quieted WAYY down.. hardly any noise at all now.. before... like i said .. it was like CLACKATA CLACKATA....

Now, since they will adjust them for free as many times as I want... what should I tell them to do.... They will do anything I want really... he asked me to bring him a sheet on how to adjust them when I went down last time...

What should I set them to..?? How will I know im at zero lash??
I will just tell him.. and make him do them over...

I really appreciate the help.

-Troy
Old Mar 22, 2004 | 10:28 PM
  #36  
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Not saying this is the end all be answer, BUT what were other LT1 powered cars running that day? What were they trapping?


For instance the local track around here most LT1s and LS1s run .3 ~ .5 off what is seen in many other places. The fastest I have ever seen a stock LS1 go at the local track was 13.45...
Most LT1s end up in the 14.3 ~ 14.6 range. So that might be something to see, or run someone with a setup close to yours and see how you do. You could try to dyno the car and see RWHP.

Last edited by Kris93/95Z28; Mar 22, 2004 at 10:45 PM.
Old Mar 22, 2004 | 10:34 PM
  #37  
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Has to be in the timing somewhere. Installing the cam a few degrees retarded on accident will defineltly make crappy power
Old Mar 22, 2004 | 11:05 PM
  #38  
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Re: Only Got 14.1 in 1/4 mile...dissapointed

Originally posted by TMorgan800
Went to the track yesterday.
With all of my mods I figured I would at least get into the 12's.
My '60 foot times I think were the one thing holding me back.
2.4-2.3 sec 60 foots didn't seem that great. Only trapping @ 100mph....????? Funky.

What would help me go faster??

Anyone have any suggestions?
Man , this cant be right . I ran the same times and traps with a bone stock LT1 six speed that had 150k on the clock . Something is bad wrong . Does it Idle rough ? Ever had a compression check ?
I hope you ge tthings figured out , But You should be running 12's easy with that setup . At least a 12.7 I hope you get it figured out man .
Old Mar 22, 2004 | 11:09 PM
  #39  
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Originally posted by ChuckZ28
I would also say your valves are not timed correctly. Valve timing is critical, and the knowledge of valve timing is even more critical. The guy that did your valve timing does'nt seem like he knows how to adjust for zero lash very well. Get it done correctly and it WILL make the difference for all that lost horsepower.
Thank god for guys like you chuck .... You in any local car clubs ? Maybe I have seen you before at edgewater .
Old Mar 22, 2004 | 11:25 PM
  #40  
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Update:
Driving home from work... I did some tests..
Floored it.. ran it up to about 5-6k... then let off quickly..
about 1/2 sec. after letting off... "POP" from the *** of the car...
sounded like a balloon popping.. or something to that effect..
Other times.. i've gotten a similar "pop!" from the engine compartament.. What the HECK!?!?!?!?
Is this unburnt fuel iginiting?? I am getting angry with this car now..
The mechainic that can get this thing fixed will definitely get a "fixers fee"... geezz...I can only hope if I yell and scream and throw enough money at this thing.. it will get fixed...

I dont know what I would do without your guys help... THANKYOU THANKYOU THANKYOU!!

--Troy
Old Mar 22, 2004 | 11:32 PM
  #41  
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timing,opti, running extremely rich..... those are my guesses..
Old Mar 22, 2004 | 11:59 PM
  #42  
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If you still havent gotten any responses on the zero lash issue, shoebox has writeups of a few methods on his site.

http://shbox.com/1/4th_gen_tech2.html#adjust_valves

And I'd also go for running rich with the popping, but didnt you say that you dont have any black soot on the rear bumper? Do your tips extend further than the bumper so maybe that wouldnt be possible?
Old Mar 23, 2004 | 12:12 AM
  #43  
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Talking to Bryan at PCM4LESS...
I hope I'm not back to the MAF issue.. this is driving me NUTS!

"If the maf is acting up it will under report the airflow and the car will have lean pops and backfires."..... Bryan

I know what club im in now... its called: " I spent all this money and got hosed " club...

" This car will desimate all! ... even if we have to overnight parts.. from .. JAPAN. " -- Jessie.. TFATF...

--troy
Old Mar 23, 2004 | 12:29 AM
  #44  
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I E-mailed Powertrain Dynamics.. They seem to be the END-ALL for LT powered cars..
I might get a dynotune.. i might just run it to see what its at..
Maybe my Crappy 60' times are just what I need to improve..
I've got 315-35's in the back.. and roasted the bejezzuss out of them..
Maybe its time for some slicks.. or just new tires that arent bald..
Still going crazy though.

--Troy
Old Mar 23, 2004 | 01:31 AM
  #45  
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Hot damn go for that dyno tune with an O2 check set up. The price you quoted is very resonable. Around here the same cost me $485.



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