oil pump priming, a different way?
oil pump priming, a different way?
Basically I want to be sure I get oil pressure right away when i fire my car up because I just put a new cam in, and had the oil pump out as well. Ive read about the 'drill in the pump drive method' here but I am hoping to start my car this weekend and I dont have the tool or a right-angle drill.
On the other hand I do have a very long, level, and very smooth driveway. Right now I have the rockers off and plugs out.
i know it sounds incredibly stupid but could I prime the oil pump by just putting the car in gear and pushing it down my driveway??
or does the crank need to remain stationary?
On the other hand I do have a very long, level, and very smooth driveway. Right now I have the rockers off and plugs out.
i know it sounds incredibly stupid but could I prime the oil pump by just putting the car in gear and pushing it down my driveway??
or does the crank need to remain stationary?
i thought you needed 500 rpm or so to achieve any form of oil pressure 
Ill try the starter first to see what happens. I dont think I would have any problem getting it to spin that fast down the driveway with the plugs out and rockers off.

Ill try the starter first to see what happens. I dont think I would have any problem getting it to spin that fast down the driveway with the plugs out and rockers off.
For one many electric drills can spin at 2,000rpm or higher which would simulate a 4,000rpm engine experience since the cam spins once for every 2 rotations of the crank. A starter can't produce that much rpm or even close to it. If you have any access to a distributor you can modify the tip to where you can use it as your bit. Don't get me wrong the starter can push oil pressure but your motor is still turning over all together instead of having oil where it needs to be with no parts moving at all.
on second thought I think i am going to at least try the driveway method because I can do it without having the cam hardware installed... which means it wont be wearing on that stuff to prime the pump. I put lucas stabilizer on my timing chain, so that will be safe for at least a few full minutes of engine operation.
good point about the RPMs connexion
good point about the RPMs connexion
Last edited by JoeliusZ28; Jul 25, 2008 at 03:21 PM.
anyway whatever, im gonna do one of the two, this was just thinking out loud.
Hey man, without the sparkplugs the sarter can spin much faster b/c there is not compression building against it in the cylinders. My 93Z with 122k miles will make 60+ psi using the original starter and its soo much easier too.
If your using asymbly lube on everything you should be in good shape then.
If your using asymbly lube on everything you should be in good shape then.
Powerslide is right. Pull the plugs out and the PCM fuse, then crank it with the starter. There won't be any load on the crank and rods, because there won't be any compression. When you put the valvetrain together, use a generous amount of assembly lube. The engine turning over will develop oil pressure and it'll make it's way to the valvetrain in short order.
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NEWBIE T/A
LS1 Based Engine Tech
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Jun 14, 2002 12:27 AM



