Say you have a positive gauge that flows oil through it and gives an exact readout rather than the one on our gauge cluster... how should it read at 5k rpms, 6k rpms, 6500 rpms etc? What is a safe amount of pressure or the needed pressure at the higher rpm's so you dont fark up any bearings? Would it be a good idea to replace the stocker with a high flow or high pressure if the motor is out of the car?

 

A rough "rule of thumb" is to insure you have 10psi per 1,000rpm, so you would be looking at 50psi for 5,000rpm, 60psi for 6,000rpm, etc. Actually, I think you can get away with a little less than that in a stock-ish LT1. For an aftermarket buildup, what pressure you need will depend on what the builder set the bearing clearances at.

The LT1 does not need a high volume oil pump, and some people have reported problems pulling the pan dry with a high volume pump. I run a blueprinted stock pump, 80psi spring and a tack-welded pickup, with stock pan on an engine that redlines at over 7,200rpm. I have seen the same setup work at over 8,000rpm on an 1,125HP LT1 engine.

The stock gauge in my car is fairly accurate, when compared directly to my mechanical AutoMeter gauge. A pressure gauge does not have to be "flow through" to be accurate. It needs an adequately sized line to be able to transmit the pressure from the sensing point to the gaugem, without "damping" the pressure. But there is no "flow" involved.

 

now would there be any dissadvantage to running a pump like yours in an occassionally street driven vehicle? Also where did you get all that done to the stock pump?

 

stick with a stock pump (that has been inspected of course). a high volume or high pressure pump will just cost you horsepower, heat the oil more, and risk running the stock oil pan dry