LT1 Based Engine Tech 1993-1997 LT1/LT4 Engine Related

Oil pan/Pump question

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Old Sep 23, 2003 | 07:30 PM
  #1  
jonaddis84's Avatar
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From: Toledo, OH
Oil pan/Pump question

Well when I threw the rod, it went through the block as well as the oil pan, so Im obviously gonna need a new one. I was originally planning on the Canton 7qt (maybe 6 dont remember), but its friggin $279 compared to the stock one at like $50 for any ordinary person to buy and my buddy gets stuff at cost for me. Is the canton worth any penny of the price difference except that it looks cool and says canton on it. I know Ill have to bang out the stocker to clearance the stroker crank but is there anything that Im not thinking of to make it worth buying the canton? It also looks by the boxy design at the bottom that it would have troubles with longtubes??

Pump, cantons is like $75 compared to mellings for a lot less than that, I know a lot of people run mellings, opinions?
Old Sep 24, 2003 | 10:32 AM
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Josh-'04 GTO's Avatar
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Do a search; this topic has been beat to death. And they pretty much all say Canton's quality and customer service blow.
Old Sep 25, 2003 | 08:41 AM
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Originally posted by Josh-'97 WS6
Do a search; this topic has been beat to death. And they pretty much all say Canton's quality and customer service blow.
Customer service can blow. I think it all depends on how you deal with the company - I actually had a great experince with them. Thier quality did suck. Thier frist gen pan (which I had) was terrible... The 2nd gen pan is wonderful however. They exchanged my 1st gen (which was 8 months old and used) for a 2nd gen at no charge.
Old Sep 26, 2003 | 10:39 AM
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So it sounds like they worked out all the little flaws with it, but their customer service might still be a little bad. I think Im just gonna stick with the stock pan, it doesnt seem worth it for the $300 to have an extra quart and a gold pan.
Old Sep 26, 2003 | 10:47 AM
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Its not the color or the quart, its the fact that the factory pan does not contain the oil around the pickup and oil pump cavitation is a huge problem on modified LT1's.
Old Sep 27, 2003 | 10:44 PM
  #6  
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Originally posted by Xscream
oil pump cavitation is a huge problem on modified LT1's.
Haven't seen that be the case with my 600+ horsepower bird and my brothers 465 horsepower Z. What changes on "modified LT1s" are you referring to that would make oil pump cavitation a problem vs. stock LT1s?
Old Sep 27, 2003 | 11:15 PM
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don't use high volume pump with stock oil pan
Old Sep 28, 2003 | 09:32 AM
  #8  
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Originally posted by lietuvis
don't use high volume pump with stock oil pan
I don't think he was referring to that, but it is a good point and worth bringing up.
Old Sep 29, 2003 | 08:45 AM
  #9  
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Originally posted by lietuvis
don't use high volume pump with stock oil pan
That would be correct sir. My car had a GM crate motor put in after 3 seasons of racing, little did anyone know it came with a HV pump. I have seen a fair ammount of other posts on here about people having HV pumps from the factory in thier car - and having cavitation problems. You must also remember this is Camaro Z-28 dot com, 95% of the posts are "my opti" this or "what cam" that, it isn't as indepth of a board as this question should be awnsered with. Its not the most common topics but there are a few on here that have had motors let go becuase of this. Go out to the track, its quite a bit more prodominate.
Old Sep 29, 2003 | 09:10 AM
  #10  
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I have had good results with the stock oil pan, and stock (but blueprinted) oil pump with an 80psi spring. That's in a 7,000+RPM soild roller, 800HP nitrous setup. I know George Baxter used the same approach in his 1,125HP Vortech 383.
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