Oil pan/Pump question
Well when I threw the rod, it went through the block as well as the oil pan, so Im obviously gonna need a new one. I was originally planning on the Canton 7qt (maybe 6 dont remember), but its friggin $279 compared to the stock one at like $50 for any ordinary person to buy and my buddy gets stuff at cost for me. Is the canton worth any penny of the price difference except that it looks cool and says canton on it. I know Ill have to bang out the stocker to clearance the stroker crank but is there anything that Im not thinking of to make it worth buying the canton? It also looks by the boxy design at the bottom that it would have troubles with longtubes??
Pump, cantons is like $75 compared to mellings for a lot less than that, I know a lot of people run mellings, opinions? |
Do a search; this topic has been beat to death. And they pretty much all say Canton's quality and customer service blow.
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Originally posted by Josh-'97 WS6 Do a search; this topic has been beat to death. And they pretty much all say Canton's quality and customer service blow. |
So it sounds like they worked out all the little flaws with it, but their customer service might still be a little bad. I think Im just gonna stick with the stock pan, it doesnt seem worth it for the $300 to have an extra quart and a gold pan.
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Its not the color or the quart, its the fact that the factory pan does not contain the oil around the pickup and oil pump cavitation is a huge problem on modified LT1's.
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Originally posted by Xscream oil pump cavitation is a huge problem on modified LT1's. |
don't use high volume pump with stock oil pan
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Originally posted by lietuvis don't use high volume pump with stock oil pan |
Originally posted by lietuvis don't use high volume pump with stock oil pan |
I have had good results with the stock oil pan, and stock (but blueprinted) oil pump with an 80psi spring. That's in a 7,000+RPM soild roller, 800HP nitrous setup. I know George Baxter used the same approach in his 1,125HP Vortech 383.
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