Well i started my cam install last weekend but it turned out the "stock" replacement chain i ordered was a single roller chain so now im jus going to order the entire single roller set up. During the cam removal i took out most of the oil pan bolt except the last 2 on each side and jus loosened those up but i couldnt get to one of the bolts on the passenger side. No matter what tool i used i coulnt even get close. Now my question is this, is it always necessary to drop the front of the oil pan? Bc i was never able to drop mine but everthing came off fine. i thought the oil pan lipped over the front or something but that didnt seem to be the case with mine. jus wondering if this has happened to someone else or if i maybe did something wrong. I followed every instruction from shoebox.com to perfection except the oil pan thing which i did atleast try to do.

 

Yes, the oil pan seals over the front of the timing cover. The cover goes on first, then the pan. That's the way SBCs were designed. If you don't drop the pan some, chances are you are going to rip the pan seal. Plus, putting the cover back on and getting it to seal will be very hard. I had to use a variety of tools, but I was able to get to all the pan bolts without too much difficulty.

 

Dont rip that gasket.

 

dang. couldnt you jus lie to me to make me feel better? lol Thanks for the quick answers. Im going to try to finish the rebuild this weekend so il let everyone know how it turns out.

 

really? I dropped my pan using only a basic ratchet set with a few extensions and swivels. What bolt exactly can you not get to? I had trouble getting to most of the bolts on the drivers side until i dropped the oil cooler lines.

edit: woo 400 posts

 

i got to all of the drivers side jus fine, but there is one on the passenger side, i think the fourth or so back, that i cant get to. i tried extensions a swivel ratchet, everthing i could think of. maybe i was jus frustrated idk ill have to see what i can do friday.

 

I think I used a long 1/4 extension and maybe a u-joint at the socket to get that one.

 

Thats all I used was 1/4 inch drive and swivel. The only thing in the way was the tranny cooler lines and I just pulled them out far enough to get in there. I just got mine done yesterday.

 

Exactly what I did, I forced the lines enough to the side where I could get the socket up on there and then zippity zip.

 

Unfortunately I don't remember what I did, but it's basically the same as
everyone is saying. I spent the most time in the front after the bolts were
loose carefully working around the seal so it did not get damaged. Use plenty
of RTV on the front when you put it back together.

 

What everyone else said. I'm doing by cam right now aswell. While I got the cover off and re seal was still fine without lowering the pan, there's no way in hell you can get it back on without dropping it.

 

So, everyone should heed the advice and drop the pan, first, so that you don't risk ripping the pan seal in the beginning.

 

What he said.

Also, Follow shoebox's tutorial! ****s amazing! Thanks for the write up, it's what I'm using to do my swap. Will definitely make a donation next payday friday!

 

Remove the bolt now, otherwise you'll remove it to replace the torn pan gasket.