Ohio Cranks any good?
Ohio Cranks any good?
I am getting my parts list together for my 385 stroker. I am going forged due to using high compression (~14:1) and E85, but will never go power adder with boost or spray, and keep the RPM's sub 68-6900. I already have SRP pistons, and will use Scat I-beams.
I see that Ohio Crank has some cheap priced forged cranks, and was looking at the 5140 forged crank as a possible option. Does anyone have any experience with these, I would like to keep costs down on this build if I can.
I see that Ohio Crank has some cheap priced forged cranks, and was looking at the 5140 forged crank as a possible option. Does anyone have any experience with these, I would like to keep costs down on this build if I can.
If your turning 68-6900 rpm with 14:1 compression i would not go 5140 I would go 4340 fo the added strenght because 5140 cranks usually arnt rated for much over a cast crank and I have not heard of a single failure of an Ohio crank. scat I beams might not be up to the task for a build like yours
A couple years ago, their quality control was HORRIBLE. Sizing was way off, journals tapered badly. A lot of them needed a LOT of heavy metal to balance right.
For cheap forged stuff, I would probably stick with SCAT or Eagle. And hell, even their QC isn't good.(At least my crank wasn't
).
Do a lot of measuring on whatever piece you buy.
For cheap forged stuff, I would probably stick with SCAT or Eagle. And hell, even their QC isn't good.(At least my crank wasn't
).Do a lot of measuring on whatever piece you buy.
Well the pistons I have are for 5.7 rods, the Scat Pro-comp rods should be strong enough, the RPM will probably be under 6800, as is mostly a street car with occasional road course/autox.
I was curious about the 5140 crank if it would be strong enough, the 4340 is not much more expensive if it is necessary.
I was curious about the 5140 crank if it would be strong enough, the 4340 is not much more expensive if it is necessary.
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