obd1 code 32 egr
obd1 code 32 egr
Just got through another day of working on my car, and it still runs like crap. I posted before what i have done: complete flush of the systems, new thermostat, new temp sensors, new cat, exhaust manifold gaskets, left 02 sensor, cold air intake. Well I thought it could be an injector, but I ohmed them out and the were all between 12.8 and 13.2 ohms. Then, I put a screw driver to them and they all seemed to be firing at the same rate. I cleaned the MAF sensor and the computer shows it reading between 7 and 9 gps at idle, but not sure about any other position. The ses light came on the other day and I used freescan to scan it and it said code 32. I know this is something to do with the egr because it said so. Just curious is there a common issue that fails with these cars? and what do i check?
Re: obd1 code 32 egr
When the PCM cycled the EGR valve, it did not see the expected changes in operating parameters that would indicate that the exhaust gas was actually flowing into the intake manifold.
Could be 1) loss of the vacuum that operates the EGR valve (cracked or loose hose); 2) EGR vacuum solenoid electric circuit OK, but the solenoid is not opening when commanded; 3) EGR valve faulty, does not open when vacuum applied; 4) EGR valve pintle plugged with carbon, or manifold passage blocked; 5) EGR riser tube leaking.
At idle, force the EGR valve open with your fingers, and see if the engine stumbles. That would confirm exhaust can flow from the exhaust manifold to the intake manifold. Try and open the EGR valve by applying vacuum to the hose that runs from the solenoid to the EGR valve. IF it opens, and the engine stumbles at idle, you have proven the EGR valve is OK, and that piece of hose. Pull a vacuum on the line at the elbow that connects to the intake manifold, while applying a ground to open the EGR vacuum solenoid. If the valve opens, you have proven the vacuum system and the solenoid.
Could be 1) loss of the vacuum that operates the EGR valve (cracked or loose hose); 2) EGR vacuum solenoid electric circuit OK, but the solenoid is not opening when commanded; 3) EGR valve faulty, does not open when vacuum applied; 4) EGR valve pintle plugged with carbon, or manifold passage blocked; 5) EGR riser tube leaking.
At idle, force the EGR valve open with your fingers, and see if the engine stumbles. That would confirm exhaust can flow from the exhaust manifold to the intake manifold. Try and open the EGR valve by applying vacuum to the hose that runs from the solenoid to the EGR valve. IF it opens, and the engine stumbles at idle, you have proven the EGR valve is OK, and that piece of hose. Pull a vacuum on the line at the elbow that connects to the intake manifold, while applying a ground to open the EGR vacuum solenoid. If the valve opens, you have proven the vacuum system and the solenoid.
Re: obd1 code 32 egr
ok sounds good.......just curious where is it located? I checked out shoeboxes website but I don't recall seeing anything on there about an egr. Is it at the back of the motor like a lot of gm cars?
32 and running like crap....
If you assume the code and running crappy are RELATED. Then your problem can only be that the EGR is open when it is not supposed to be. Since it is sprung back to the closed position, that could only mean the pintle is stuck out. You will have to remove it to see why.
If it were staying closed, it would NOT have an effect on the way the engine is running. Understand?
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chevroletfreak
LT1 Based Engine Tech
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Jul 4, 2005 05:00 PM



