I posted up in another board, but hopefully I can actually get some help here. My problem is the car will not start and has no reaction to anything in the on and start positions. The security light does not flash at all and I do have CD player/lights/etc... in the accy and lock positions.

I have replaced the ignition switch and the blue pigtail that goes with it (not the black one though), the key cylinder and new key (with matching resistance), and gone through the GM Dealer tech manuals on troubleshooting the BCM and VATS. I am not able to access the diagnostic mode of the BCM and it's as if none of the electronics even come on in on/start positions. Is it necessary to replace the BCM to possibly remedy this problem? It is most likely not the theft deterrent relay b/c there is no security flash, and I don't know where to begin with voltage checking and haven't learned which settings are appropriate to obtain the right readings on a DVM. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I think I'm going crazy this has been going on for about 6 months???!!!

 

is the ignition switch adjusted properly?

 

Still sounds like ignition .. when my VATS went off cuz it didn't read the chip it acted kinda like that, cept in bout 4-5min i could try again, and it would try turning over for a split sec before the VATS went off again. So try ignition, if ya can get yer hands on an OBD-II code reader to see if u can talk to the ECU, then if it don't connect .. i would say ignition again, had a dodge ram that did that same thing your saying, couldn't talk to the ECU and it ended up being the ignition, cept the WHOLE thing was replaced. .kinda pricey ..

Hope that helped alittle!

 

The ignition switch was put in correctly, when it went in I had the key in lock position and moved the switch one position over. It's impossible for me to use a code reader b/c even if I could the Data Link Connector is not responding along with all of the electronics in on/start.

 

If you are getting no power at all to the dash when you turn the key, it sounds like there is no power going in/out of the ignition switch.

 

Neutral safety switch sticking perhaps. Sounds like what my 93 used to do. I'd turn the key to the run position and move the car from park down the line into 2nd and then back up and it would fire right up. It's somewhere to look.

 

TTT...So the neutral control safety switch could also be the problem? I also thought that I could've gotten a bum ignition switch from the dealer so I think I'll test the voltage and see what I can see. Thanks for the help.

 

I agree with Rob, sounds like you lost the fusible link at the ignition switch. Should be the only red wire to the ignition switch that comes from the positive cluster on the passenger fender near the battery. One quick test for this is turn the key to ACC and RUN position and turn the wipers on.

In addition if you changed the resistance of the key, the BCM must be reprogrammed. Your new key should have the same resistance pellet as the old one so as to not have to go through this procedure. You said "matching" so I assume you mean it matches the old key resistance.

I'm a little confused by you saying you have radio in the "lock" position. Do you mean after you cycle power on and then off with the doors closed?