Application 1994 LT1 rebuilt Stroker Motor
Mods are in the sig.

About three weeks ago I scanned my camaro for codes and a reading that said MAF circuit came on. I tried clearing and it later returned. Later in that day, I took my car on a side street. Stepped on the gas and moments later the car stopped sparking when I got on it. When I drive the car normal, it runs fine. ONly when I really stepped on it the car stopped sparking. ALmost as if I were to step on the gas and then quickly get off the gas making the car jerk forward.

TONIGHT:
I replaced my valve covers with some taller ones because my stock ones would not work with my roller rockers. I had the new covers fabbed up like Canton's covers. The only thing I had to do extra was grind the back of the altenator to clear the covers leaving just a small tip of metal touching the cover. I put everything back togather went to start the car AND NOT START. I checked and Recheck everything from connections to fuses. Everything checks out ok. I pulled off the number 1 spark plug and placed an extra plug that I had inside of it and put it on top of the intake manifold. I cranked the car and no spark coming from the plug at all. I pulled off the coil plug wire leading into the opti. NO spark. So I would like to know what the heck is going on. TO me it sounds like my OPTI spark just TOOK a dump. This is odd because other than what I described 4 weeks ago, the car was running decent. Since then its been sitting for a long time. Now no start. Could the altenator thats touching the valve cover be an issue?
Thanks
Chris

 

The metal touching the valve covers on the alternator is most likely not a problem because the case of the alternator is a ground as is the engine but I would grind just a little bit more to seperate the two just in case check your Ignition Control Module most local O'Reily stores can do it for you just had mine go out thanksgiving it did the same thing even started a couple of times after it stopped got into it to get up to speed then it would die then eventually stopped completely good luck let us know what happens

 

opti harness, normally you would have issues with your opti before it just decided to quit on its own.

 

So youve had a bad ICM? Ive never ever replaced that part since ive owned the car. I was thinking my coil. I took an old coil that I had in the garage. PLaced it on the top where the headlights are. Tooks off the coil end plug thats on the coil in the car and put it on my spare. And hooked up the plugs. And still no spark. But IM wondering if the coil needs to be resting in that harness under the ICM. I'll check out my ICM. Im getting sick and tired of EFI cars man. I gotta set of micky thompsons sitting in the garage, skinnies, and th-350 ready to go in. ALong with my carb set up that im thinking about doing. I have two kids and no back seats in my camaro. Im thinking about making just an drag car. If this doesnt get solved. It might be time to GO OLD SCHOOL.
LOL
Chris

 

sound just like what happened to my icm yeah it was a head scratcher but i found no spark from the coil so i knew it was either the coil itself or the icm at least i could make my way back have it tested tomorow it only took a couple of minutes oh and you can buy it at advanced auto for 72.99 i cant remember if O'Reily was cheaper though

 

Update.
I borrowed a MAC tools scanner from my job. Hooked up the scanner to the car and selected trouble codes. RESULTS?
DTC16. (low pulse frequency or something to that nature) If im not mistaken. That will indicate a bad OPTI Spark. Can someone confirm these findings so I can ditch the EFI on my car LOL.
Chris

 

yeah, almost always means bad opti. long as the low ref. ckt from the opti to the pcm is intact. did you use a hose to rinse off teh engine maybe?

make sure to check the opti harness on the pass. side of the intake to make sure you didnt mess up that, or that a term. isnt loose. those are the only ways I could see that you could have "done" something to cause the problem when you removed the valve covers.

also, sure you have the plug grounded when your cranking to test for spark?
chris

 

alternator I'd say, maybe 12v wire is grounding out on the valve cover or something idk

 

low res code isn't necessarily bad opti, could be not enough volts reaching it causing it to throw the code

 

The only thing that I can think of is when I put the valve covers on Keep in mind car has been sitting for two weeks. And temps reach around 30 to 40 Degrees. I had the passenger side valve cover in garage. While installing the passenger side valve cover I accidently hit something metal around the intake area and I saw a spark occur. It was wierd. Im wondering if that has an effect.
Chris

 

I know this sounds stupid but check the battery

are you getting any voltage with the key in the "on" position? if not what you did may have drained the battery or it already had a weak charge to begin with

 

Battery is fine. Its charged up. The motor cranks with good power.
Chris

 

Clear the DTC 16 (pull "PCM BAT" fuse for 30 seconds) and see if it comes right back. If it does, its a problem with the PCM not being able to find the low res pulse from the Opti. When that happens, the PCM shuts down the fuel system - pump and injectors.

 

Update!
Pulled the PCM fuse out. Cleared the code. Still no start. Strip down the front of my motor to access the opti. Swapped out the harness first. NO START, swap out the opti that I had lying in my garage that worked fine with my last 383, NO START. MY EFI days are "OVER". I have two kids and married and dont plan on daily driving this car at all. It is NOW a drag car strickly. I have a Turbo 350 with 9' tail shaft sitting in the garage. THanks for everyone's support on finding the issue.
Chris

 

try the ignition control module i'm pretty sure that is your problem take it to O'Riely they test it for free it will be a relatively cheap and very easy fix