Ok so Ive done a V6 swap to a 94-95 LT1 I was getting ready to start it & the starter was bad , im fixing that . ALso when you turn the Key on before you start your supposed to hear the fuel pump prime well nothing. Ive ent through every ground & they all look good. we pulled the relays under the dash on the Pass side & no power to those check all my connections they all look good. Now im using a LT1 automatic wiring harness & ECM on my T56 I have a guy who is going to tune the car for that harness as soon as I get it running .

DOES anyone have a clue its probaly something easy but ????? PLease any help here would be great thank you .

PM ME OR EMAIL ME OR EVEN CALL ME (419)466-9830 thats my work cell its always on .


JOSH

 

What relay are you talking about in the passenger side of the IP?????? The only relay for fuel is located under the driver side "dead pedal" for both V6 cars and V8's.

As far as the pump is concerned, have you tried putting 12 volts on the fuel pump prime connector? Have you checked the connector outside the body, just in front of the axle to see if power and ground are there?

 

I had a friend that came over & he dropped the glove box & pulled 2 relays that were on the right side behind the pannel for the glove box he said one was for the fuel pump? I just went off what he said . I did see the one under the drivers side but didnt know what that was. I will check that one .

As for the wire by the rear axel no I didnt know about that one either & I dont know where the fuel pupm prime connector is at please excuse my I DONT KNOW`s here I hate wiring , LOL . thank you for your time & help Im sure with you guys on this board Ill get it running.


JOSH

 

2 suggestions. Ditch the friend and don't think just cause you don't "hear" the fuel pump that it doesn't work. If you are doing major wiring like you did in the swap, you should have a good set of shop manuals with schematics.

First, check the schrader valve for fuel pressure after having cycled power several times.

Next go the connector ahead of the axle and check the 2 wires going to the pump for 12 volts when the key is turned for the first 2 seconds. The purple wire there is for the fuel gage. Leave it alone.

The prime connector is the little single connector on the grey wire in the harness right by the PCM. It may be wrapped in the harness protector so you may have to dig it out. It will look as though it's a connector that should have been plugged into something but was left off. When you put 12 volts on this connector, it should fire up the pump. You can confirm this by either checking the schrader valve or measuring the voltage at the connector located ahead of the axle.

 

vats.

 

My thought exactly. You need to disable VATS. The ECM will not allow the pump to prime without it taken care of. Also check the 12V for prime and constant supply as mentioned above.

 

My idiot sister's friend did some work on her car and did some wiring on it. The car wouldn't start. The fuel pump wasn't getting any power. It ended up being a blow PCM fuse.

 

Ok I just read the post & I'm going to try the Vats thing . I know where that is , LOL.

Now I found the Fuel pump Relay next to the clutch on the lower left hand corner , the pink wire has power with the key on so I took a paper clip put it in the pink spot then touched the white wire caddy corner & then turned the key on & the pump came on & stayed on but the car still wouldn't start ??

Just trying to get this going & I hope im not sounding stupid I just want to hear her run , now it will just about start on starting fluid .

Post up anymore suggestions , Im going to go check the vats wires right now maybe I have them reversed , I bought a Vats plug from the dealer & wired it in but the plug from the dealer the wires were both white , DRRRR.

Thank you all for your support & help I really appreciate it as for the friend I ditched him & told him Ill figure it out myself!!


JOSH

 

When you disconnect the switch key sensor wires, put an ohmeter with probes like paper clips in the side going to the switch. Put your key in and see if you can register the key's resistance on the meter in all positions of the switch. If it drops out, that could be your problem. However, if your unit is wired correctly and the key was the problem, the security light would be lit or blinking.

Also, the pink wire you probed on the relay is hot on the run and start position. The green/ white wire is the wire controlling the relay. This signal comes from the PCM on the red connector pin 7. This is the output from the PCM and it is determined by the input from the Theft Deterrent module. One of the first things to check is the 2 fuses used by the TDM which are fuse #4 and #5 in the IP fuse panel. They are 10 and 15 amp.

 

The fuses are fine those were the first thing I checked. We were wondering if where the ECM wires come into the car & hook up if the LT1 OBD 1 computer wires are different then the V6 wiring that was already in the car. Somebody told me a few pins may need moved around , but not sure. I will check the ohm resistance sunday when I get back home Im out of town for the weeked . Thank you again .

JOSH