No. For large shots of nitrous and nitrous-specific engine builds, you might want a larger lobe separation angle on the cam, but for a moderate HP, bolt-on nitrous installation, you will be OK with just about any cam. You do need a good exhaust system and might go for a larger split in the exhaust duration as well. But for a simple system on a stock(ish) engine, you just bolt on the nitrous system (and the required accessories/safety devices) and have fun. I ran an NOS dry 150-shot for 5 years on my stock engine.

And I wouldn't be alarmed by the cost of the nitrous. A bolt-on kit on a stock engine will probably never see a dyno. Only 2-3 passes on a bottle? I get 2 at full HP with my 300-shot. The kind of system he's looking at will not be limited to 2-3 passes per 10# bottle. It can be addictive though....

 

In my opinion, Ive been through this, I have a N/A 388 Ci. LT1 and If I was you I would go with a cam, preferably with your setup cc306, get it tuned and get some roller rockers. But everything you add will need something else. For instance big cam you will need some lifters that can take some punishment and some pushrods that wont bend, but it's not something you will need right now but eventually.

 

Thanks for all of the advice so far, btw, the cc306 cam was in my car before i bought it...so I already have the supporting lifters and push rods, along with a heavy duty timing chain...on ebay I see a kit right now for 580 dollars, http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NX-Ni...spagenameZWDVW, but I dont know if I need anything else? God this is such a hard decision, I also have a near stock evo next door to me sayin he would still whoop my *** in a race...I beg to differ...but anyways back to the point so hypothetically I get a used bottle or used stuff what should I buy used and what should I not buy used...and can anyone give me a brief description on just how this kit will work when I finally get it all hooked up.
Thanks so far
Vince

 

just one more thing to ask...is there anyway I can purge it through my ram air, like as if smoke was coming out of the nose of my car, I have seen it done on a 2001 WS6 in my old car club and he had a green light in it so that it would glow green at night and I thought that was bada$$ so yea lemme know how I would accomplish that (if I can)
Vince

 

so i could run say a 100 shot on my completley stock 95 z28 with all the proper saftey equipment? and it wouldnt hurt my car at all? also what is the difference between a dry shot and a wet shot?

 

Dry kit adds nitruos to the intake air stream (generally between the MAF sensor and the throttle body) and temporarily raises the fuel pressure to supply the extra fuel through the injectors, to go with the nitrous. The manifold is "dry" because it flows only air and nitrous.

Wet kit combines the nitrous and fuel using a nozzle (between the MAF and TB) or a spray bar (in a plate sandwiched between the TB and the manifold), and adds both the fuel and nitrous to the intake air stream. The manifold is "wet" because in addition to the gaseous air and nitrous, it also flows atomized fuel.

You can put a 125-150HP kit on a stock engine, and assuming you don't run it lean, and assuming you don't have too much timing advance, and assuming you don't have spark plugs that work like glow plugs, you won't hurt the engine.

 

and...

Is why I say


I agree that the bottle is not useless after 2 hits, but you can not deny that it does fall off sharply after just a few uses. Another thing to consider is the environment a nitrous system subject to on the street is very diffrent from track use. Alot gets wasted on the street. From purging the system to just opening and closing the bottle in anticipation of a race that may not even go down. Another example, leaving the bottle open for extended periods of time will allow it to bleed off N20. Having nitrous is like having a gun... it's won't do you any good unloaded. You never know, you may get the chance to hunt and kill an exotic... I did... it was great You'll know what it's about after you have had it for a couple of months. It will cost more than you originally budgeted but the rewards are boundless.

 

I would say you would be OK buying everything Purge related used, tanks used, line, gauges, nozzles, and jets used.

But for sure, spend the money and get new solenoids. You'd hate to buy used, have a nitrous solenoid stick, and blow your engine.

 

You wouldn't expect mid 12's on a LT1 w/nitrous? Look at the times in my sig (the bottom time, not the top) and see other wise. Only mods to the car besides a LOW BOTTLE PRESSURE kit were a SLP CAI and a Walbro FP.

 

I got my wet kit for $400 new. Call up harris speedworks, they are a sponsor on here, and have top notch kits, and customer service.

 

I just went on their website, looks very reputable, along with the 379.99 kit what else did you buy from them j/w. Thanks for the referral and Ill mention your name to them when I get in touch with them about my car. Thanks
Vince

 

A couple more pros and cons on wet versus dry:

Wet you can use stock injectors. And its easier to set up and go.

WIth a dry kit, it is much more precise. Air distributes ( Gases in general, including N20) just about evenly to all 8 cylinders. And then the fuel injectors spray a more precisely metered amount of fuel, to match the amount of N20, into each cylinder.

WIth a wet kit, certain cylinders will pull more fuel ( Gasoliene, not N20 and Air )