Hey guys, I'm currently building a 93 h/c/I lt1 that only has 15k on it to swap into my 84 trans am. I'm running the 93 t56 as well. I'm looking to get a new set of connecting rods and reuse the factory pistons with new rings. My question is, are the factory pistons press fit or floating. Which brand of rods would you reccomend on the cheap. I'll be buying from jegs, so part numbers would be greatly appriciated.

If I need to change anything else in there, let me know.

Dustin

 

stock rods are press fit..
if your using the stock pistons, use the stock rods, just get some arp rodbolts, and have the rods reworked at your local automotive machine shop.

what kind of heads, cam and intake you planning on running?

 

I have a set of le2 heads and one of his intakes. I've also got a cc306 cam and a gm847 cam. Which cams better? I'm using a 58 mm bbk tb and a set of long tube hookers with a ram HD clutch kit. I also have 7/16 rocker studs, 1.6 roller rockers, hardened pushrods, and guideplates.

Should I get l-19 arp rod bolts

 

with the heads and cams you have your gonna need more than stock pistons, i think your gonna need forged rods, and forged pistons to get the rpms you need for the cams you have, to do it reliably..

stock pistons would just kill the heads and cams you have..

both cams are good, i guess take your pick..

people need to be more specific!

 

Which pistons and rods should I go with. I'm on a small budget since we just built
a house. I'm leaning towards the gm847 cam.

 

i would go with atleast a speedpro forged piston..

for rods. probably like an eagle h-beam with 7/16 rod bolts.

 

Are h beams really required

 

well theres such a gap in rods, you go from a 5140 rod, which i think good stock rods will compare with,from 5140 rods you go to an H-beam rod..

for the money you'll spend on h-beams, i think they would be a good buy for your application..

imo, with the cam you have, you need a pretty decent bottom end..

with a gm847 your looking a shiftpoints around 6400-6500rpm

this is a copy and paste from another site i frequent:

GM847: (234/242 .575/.595 112lsa) w/ 1.6RR's
The largest cam of the bunch. Over the years it has proven itself as a cam that puts out good numbers and good track times. Very strong mid-range and top-end with some low-end loss. Will put out slightly better numbers than the cc306 while exhibiting similar drivability. Not recommended for cars that are daily drivers or that have stock bottom ends/heads due to its large size in duration. Stock heads don’t allow this cam to be used to its full potential so one with a built bottom end and head work would benefit greatly from this cam. Automatics require high-stall converters and gears and 6-speeds require steep gearing to run this cam successfully. Degree of cam surge will be determined by how good the tune is, stall size/gearing etc.
Pass Emissions?: No
Shift Point for Maximum Performance: 6400+rpm
Idle Characteristics: Very Choppy Idle
M6; Require Gears?: Yes
A4; Require Stall?: 2800+ Stall Speed

 

Ok, thanks alot guys. Anyone got a rwhp guess with my set up?

 

Bore it .030 and search "ellwein 355",then use the recommened parts.

 

Ok thanks, I live in Columbus.

 

read this write up...

http://www.ellweinengines.com/Ellwei...Kit/355Kit.htm

 

Hey guys, I just purchased some scat 5.7 H beams. Got any leads on some budget friendly pistons?

 

this is a good budget forged piston http://www.summitracing.com/parts/TRW-L2256F/

 

There is absolutely nothing about an H-beam rod that makes it better or worse than an I-beam rod. At least at this level, pay no attention to I-beam vs. H-beam. I would re-use the stock rods if doing heads and cam on the cheap. In fact, I would re-use the whole rotating assy. if it looks in good shape once you get it apart. The car has only 15K miles after all. Put the $$$ into the valvetrain where it will actually make more hp. Also, a good set of rings, I am partial to Total Seal gapless, that's $$$ well spent.

Rich