Well the reason I didnt say get a cutout was because you said you wanted to do a Borla catback with which the cutout wouldnt be needed because you could run the full open plate.

Like Rich said, for your purposes , I would leave the cat alone and go with a catback. There are good ones out there that are cheaper. I have the Hooker Aeroflow catback which sounds nice and is about $300. If you dont want to sound so nice at times put a cutout in with that catback and open it up whenever you like.

I say you would deffinently need at least the lt4 springs with the 1.6 rr ....youll get 5-7 hp from them....so at $350 thats not that great of a bang for the buck. An electric waterpump will give you that at 1/2 the price.

shift kit.....not needed.

 

Info; The factory cat back pipe is 2 3/4 dia. good flow for up to 350hp. I had a MAGNAFLOW muffler installed & it has 2 1/2 dia. tail pipes as opposed to factory 2 1/4". The Magnaflow is a "straight" thru muffler, no baffles so it makes the power. I think that the factory muffler w/the 21/4
tail pipe is the major exhaust restriton,
not the cat back pipe. Works for me &...
the sound is like glass packs.

 

once you do any mods, get the LT4 knockmodule, its only 35 bucks or so on gmpartsdirect and the stock unit will kill alot of the performance mods you add in alot of cases, so, its more than worth it

and custom tuning is best, but i know my car ran better with the power programmer than with stock tune once mods were added (this is from previous owner)... i get my computer programmed by JnJSpeedShop so my hpp is for sale but, it was better than nothing

 

well basically, i put down 257 to the wheels in my 94 A4 w. a Loudmouth and SLP CAI. a few other minor mods not worth noting.

 

My '95 Z-28, bone stock doing a GTech run tested at 144 rwhp, 14.1 sec 1/4 @104 mph, and a 60ft of 5.44 secs. I know some people don't put a lot of faith in the GTech performance meter, but for what it's worth, those were the results I got. I have yet to take it to the strip as my clutch grenaded. Also, I think you mentioned yours was an automatic; this run was with a manual, also pretty early on during my ownership, so my shifting has improved since.

 

ummm, why would you even post those gtech results?

they are obviously way off, there is no way your car pulled a 5 sec 60' and a 14 in the 1350, that means you made it 1290' in 9 seconds.

not to mention the rwhp number...i dont think those results are in the least be accurate.

 

Cut out, like mentioned above, is great. I got mine for $35, and paid $40 for the weld in. Well worth it, Ive only closed it twice since last summer. Once for emissions, and another time to take it to the dealer. It doesnt sound the best, but I love to make noise.

We have a local group dyno day this sat, I plan to make one run open, another closed. Other than that, all I have done is the TB bypass, and K&N drop in, with a FUBAR airbox.

I ran 14.0 @ 97, w/ a 2.0 short time, before the cut out. This was on tires passed the wear bar and a broken diff. I cant wait to make it back in a few weeks in hope of that 13.8-9.

 

Hey, ummm, I think I remembered stating that not everyone agrees with the GTech results in the first place. I'd post those results because this is a message board, and the entire purpose is to share information from different sources. Though it would be difficult for that scenario to occur, there isn't any violation of physics involved for those results to be valid, especially when I margin of error is given. Also, what about the horsepower? You think every LT1 that rolls off the line is going to adhere strictly to the 275 hp at the fly number?

 

Those Gtech #'s are obviously wrong.

 

ummm, why would you even post those gtech results?[/QUOTE]

First of all, g-tech's are fairly accurate on e.t.. They are not perfect. My car ran a 13.53 at the track. It ran a 13.58 on the gtech. The mph is way off, due to wheelspin and so forth, but the e.t. is pretty good, if the road is flat and u position it right. My buddies 2000 ws6 threw down a 13.7 at the track and the same on the gtech.

Something has to be wrong with the rear-wheel thing. I dont use that, but it sounds way off.

With the mods thing, like everyone said, a good catback a cai or ram air depending on your budget, the intake stuff (airfoil, maf descreen and porting). Shift kit is good, but you can see alot of those benefits with the power programmer. I have a power programmer and when I took it to the track it sure as hell helped! My car ran that 13.53 with flowmaster muffler, 3.73, moroso cai, power programmer. Oh, by the way my car is a 95 z28 with A4.