hi......i just bought a 1995 Z/28 LT-1 Camaro. its a Auto,with the GU5(3.23) gears,Fully loaded,Bone STOCK, and its got 54,000 miles on it. i have some questions about these cars.....im new to all this so hear we go! #1. how much RWHP do the 95' Z/28 Automatics put down stock? #2.what do the usally run in the 1/4?..and whats the MPH? what are the best bang for the buck mods to do? on these LT-1's can you pull of the all the smog crap, and AC Crap....meaning all pumps,and hoses and run underdrive pulleys and a short belt like you used to in the old days with the 87-93 5.0L Fox Body Mustangs? will you gain horsepower like the 5.0's by doing this? thanks everyone!

 

Not 100% sure, but I believe they have around 225-230rwhp. Low 14s-high 13s stock, exhaust and cai are good to start mods, headers, long tubes would be much better! You could pull the ac and smog stuff the underive pulleys don;t make a big difference on these cars. Possibly a pc reprogram would be a good choice too depending on what else you do to it.

 

Well they put down between 225-245 RWHP,they normally will run between 13.8 - 14.3 at 96-99mph in the 1/4 mile,you can pull off the a/c ,EGR,and air pump.You can run underdrive pulleys but it is not easy to run a short belt and the underdrives are not as effective on the LT1 as they are on the 5.0 because the water pump is driven off the camshaft and the air pump is electric.The best mods on a budget are bypassing the water than runs through the TB,homemade CAI,exhaust cutout,straight pipe in place off the converter,160 thermostat and a manual fan switch.

 

275fwhp=240rwhp about.13.9-14.2 at 98-102.Depends if you have a strong car.Best mods-CAI(cold air induction)Headers,roller rockers.Pulleys dont do much on these cars,only underdrive p/s and alternater.Try the search fearture also,a lot of info there.

 

You figure approx 15% drivetrain loss to the real wheels, so a 95 should have had 275 hp stock, so they say, that ends up to be approx: 233.75 ~ 235 rwhp. The best bang for the buck mods would be Cold Air Intake (8-10 hp), freer flowing exhaust (headers and exhaust). The pulleys don't work as well on the Fbodys as they did on those older 5-0s unfortunately, You do gain a bit, but remember that the alternator doesn't turn as quickly in this situation. For an auto, you DEFINITELY need a stall converter, 2800-3200 range.

Stock, a 95 should run low 14s in the quarter mile, btw.

 

on a A4 car, most dyno sheets ive seen of stock LT1s have been in the 230-240 range. ETs are anywhere from mid 13s on down with MPH from about 104 (that's the highest ive seen) on down.

as far as mods, CAI and a cat-back would be the best first couple of mods to do. i would do all of the free mods (TB bypass, fan switch, therm, MAF descreen, gutted cats((depending on state emissions)), although you will hear alot of people advise against these (free mods) because they have either heard their not worth it, or have had bad experiences with them. that has not been the case for me. headers of your choice, a stall and gear would be a good follow up. from there, it really depends on what you want to do with the car. if you just want a little more "giddy-up" over stock, stop there. if you want to build the motor for NA power with heads/cam/intake/stroker, than start saving. if you're on a budget but still crave more power, than you can strap on a bottle. it's all in what you want.

as for the pullies, yes they will help a little. the AC and smog crap, well that really depends on where you live. the AC can come off no problem, but the emissions are different for every state. i know where i live here in VA if i take off the air pump and all the other emissions junk, i wont pass inspection. ive also heard that it really doesnt help that much, but is moreso for cleaning up the engine bay. but i still have all that stuff so i wouldnt know....



welcome, and feel free to ask away any other Q's!!!





jon

 

I own a 93 LT1. To me the best mods for the car is, the power programmer, cold air induction, headers, and the rear section muffler system: I used Borla. With these mods i was running in the mid 13s, without any type of sticky tires. If you want to max these mods, go for a 4.10 gear. It will give you a 2.87 final drive
ratio: .70x4.10, as compared to a 2.26: .70x3.23. You will find this
combination more reliable than chopping your motor apart, because its hard to find good, honest, work. Keep it simple and
you will be happy with your car; that is if you still want some type of reliabilty.

 

Catback and cold air induction will be the best place to start. Then go for some headers and a stall converter. Then some 3.42 or 3.73 gears.......How deep are your pockets and I hope you dont have a wife

You can remove ac ,egr, and air but you should reprogram the pcm or your gonna throw some codes and your service engine light will come on. You can pass output emmisons without these but not a visual....you can block off the egr but leave it in place and you good to go. I never have been questioned on the air stuff being gone , but technically they could.(just dont throw it away incase you need it to pass)

 

wow! thanx for all the help guys! thats great Info!.........the z feels really strong and runs great! i think my first mods are ganna be a good Tune up,new Plugs,Wires,Synthetic oil change,fuel filter and a fuel injector cleaner. Whats the fan switch mod? i have heard that those Hypertech power Programmers are Terrable! are they all that bad? i've seen some guys at my local track saying that it hurt there performance! loss of MPH and other stuff. here's what i plan on doing......#1. Nitto Drag Radials #2. 3.73 gears( or not?)i've heard that i already have a good gear and a 3.73 is not worth it?? #3. K&N FIPK...or the Moroso CAI #4.Hooker Long Tube Headers #5.Off road Y-pipe #6. Borla Cat back Exhaust. i've also heard that a Custome True duel Exhaust will get me more horsepower? is that true? If i do 1-6 the mods i listed what kind of RWHP would i be at? what would i run the 1/4?...and what would the MPH be?? thanx guys! this site rocks!

 

Dont waste you money on that...get some real programming software and a cable. You can get Tunercat software and a cable for 1/2 the price of a power prorammer and Tunercat will do 10 times what the power programmer can. No flame intended ohnoas...I made the same mistake.

 

1. Good
2. 3.73s are good but you could easily find some cheap used3.42s
...I would pass on the gears and get a higher stall converter instead if you have to chose.
3.Good
4.very good
5.very good
6. pass on duals

Those mods will get around 290rwhp and with some practice and depending on the stall you should run high 12s - low 13s with 103-104 traps.

 

12's would rock! i have a few more Q's. i have also heard that buying a good cat-back system is a waste of money? is that true? those who say that....are saying to just cut out my stock cat....and weld in a Cut-out...with a streight pipe? is that better to due? and i heard that 1.6 Roller Rockers would be a good Horsepower Increase? sence i have an Auto...would a shift kitt help me out any? thannk you!

 

Don't gut the cats. Ignoring the ethical/legal implications (about which we might end up arguing) consider that on a relatively stock car there will be no performance gain and it will smell like an outhouse. Otherwise, you have gotten good advice. I'd say CAI, headers, cat back, higher stall converter and/or gears (if you have 2.73"s) as the first "basic" mods. 1.6:1 roller rockers would be next on my list, though the stock springs are marginal with these. After that, assuming you are going to stay NA, heads and a cam. Going beyond that gets into some pretty major stuff, which it sounds like you aren't ready for.

Good luck.

Rich Krause

 

This is what I would do- headers, catback exhaust, stall, sticky tires, CAI, and a cam

 

Maybe the best bang for the buck right now is an exhaust cutout. You can geta Flowtec cutout for like $35, have it welded on for another $30, and gain around 10 rwhp (what i've heard for others' dyno pulls...havent dyno'ed mine yet). Thats a pretty good gain for $65.

and if you want your car loud...this is LOUD