I just had pacesetter LTs+ypipe and Hooker catback system installed today. When i got the car back I noticed it idled kiinda rough and in first i randomly get a slight drop in power in the lower rpms...best way i can describe it is similar to not giving enough gas when the clutch engages but not letting it stall...cept I'm closer to 2000 rpms and already in gear.

I got the race headers, and I still have the AIR and EGR in the car, but not hooked up. I'm going to have a buddy help delete and tune the car. Will that take care of the "problem?". Or is it just an attribute of the LTs that I'm not used to?

Thx, Bryan.

 

is your egr vacum line plugged? if not thats a problem. you need to plug the line until you get everything off. you most likely have a check engine light, so the computer is probably dumping fuel at it, causing it to loose power. get all the emissions off and get a tune and you should be fine.

 

They supposedly capped it off. I'm gonna go check it now. I bought a set of vacuum caps from autozone...but the mechanic said none of em fit (he just looked at em, didnt try em...).

 

The egr vacuum line is a little hose coming out of the top backside of the engine right? If so they left the hose on but didnt cap it. Should I cap the hose or take the hose off and cap the end on the block?

 

It won't matter it only has vaccum when the egr solenoid is commanded open. Sounds to me like theres a plug wire burnt off. Very easy for this to happen with headers. I went with the OVC wires and have no probs.

 

Just to be on the safe side get an EGR valve deletion kit. It cosists of 3 aluminum plates that complete block off all openings of the EGR system, it only cost about $20.00. Sounds like you dont need the small one on the header.

You will need to turn the EGR function off with a custom tune too.
The AIR has nothing to do with it.

Next thing is the possibility of the burnt plug wire or a wire not hooked up all the way.

 

the egr valve kicks on at a crusing speed of i believe 65 mph. now down low you will have a slight stumble, if not hooked up properly or if its going bad. my egr valve was going bad and going 35 mph and low rpm the car would buck and jerk. i unhooked the vacum line and everything is fine. since you have the race headers you have noway to hook the egr valve up to the headers. so im still going to stick with that. the egr valve is robbing power and causing the car to act funny. but make sure you do double check the wires. and get that tune done asap!

 

I know its the plug for sure. The mechanic said he had to drop the engine and remove a plug to get one of the headers on...Its obvious he didnt know what he was doing. I had a line leaning on a header, the alternator power cable was against the belt (it tore down to the copper wire) and their idea of vacuum blocking 2 lines was sticking a lug nut in em...

So...

I have the egr tube sealed with a vacuum cap.

1. The 2 other tubes: 1 right behind the alternator...is it supposed to be vacuum sealed and the 2nd right behind the air intake is it supposed to be sealed?

 

Need some help..what are the 2 tubes in my above post?

 

The two tubes that are coming up vertically from the bottom of the engine towards the front where you describe are your AIR tubes, and they can stay open, they only lead from your AIR pump... which is now doing nothing.

When you get a chance yank those tubes and the AIR pump for weight savings and less clutter.

http://www.zmydust.com/airpump.html

 

k. Right now shes runnin semidecent when cold, still has a bit of power loss. As soon as she warms up tho the power loss increases and every couple seconds you hear a pop from the exhaust.

 

Sounds exactly like what happened to me 2 weeks ago. #4 wire was just touching the alternator bracket and was firing through the insulation to the block. It wasn't pinched, crushed or in any way forced to touch the bracket. Just happened to be near it. I found it by checking the temp of the primaries and found one cyl a lot colder than the rest on start up.

Since I didn't see where you replaced the wires, may want to look into it. It seemed the wires get old, dry and or brittle and loose some of their dielectric capability.