mkent

I am a firm believer that even a highflow catalytic converter robs our cars...I had not changed anything (except switching from 2.73 gears to 3.73 gears) since 2 years ago when I was at the same dyno with Ion's same tune. My car peaked at 297 hp and 307 tq on this dynojet. Well, I was VERY unhappy with my torque numbers, so unhappy that I gutted my $570 dualcat setup. Here are the results:


As you can see, we started off running very lean and as I added fuel, we kept gaining a little bit at a time.
I believe I am running the stock spark tables on that run. I advanced it a couple degrees and ran on the street lastnight and didn't get any knock. I wonder if I could increase the dyno numbers much by adding that spark?

Sweetred95ta

I would imagine the numbers would increase by adding timing. You need to do that on the dyno now that you have the fuel tables set.

James Montigny

A little custom tuning and she'll be breathing like a horny angel.
(Been looking for a place to use that one, thanks Meatloaf)

SStrokerAce

Timing is one of the variables you should play with on the dyno to get the optimum results from the setup.

Bret

Bersaglieri

Nice numbers, but I would have expected slighter higher RWHP numbers. If you could use another 10rwhp/10rwhp I'd get a E-WP. Either way nice TQ.

-Dustin-

BlackScreaminMachine

I was able to run 41 degrees of total timing, with out spark retard it just proves how inefficent LT1 combustion is.

Mike96z

By looking at the first of your dyno and the squiggily (how ever you spell it) lines, it looks like you are having some ignition problems, like opti spark, it should be a bit smoother throughout the whole run.

SStrokerAce

Did that make the most power though? You don't always want the most timing you can get without knock, you want the least amount that makes power.

Bret

marshall93z

Werd!

mkent

oh, is that what that was? The car didn't have any missing or anything before, during or after making those runs but the next day the rotor fell off inside the opti! (the screws had vibrated loose on a 20,000mi unit). Anyhow, perhaps it had something to do with that.

Mike96z

Had the same thing happen, I took my car to have it dyno'd and then the run was smooth in the lower rpms but it got squiggily in the high rpms near the end of the run and found out it was the opti, fixed it and the next runs the car had a SMOOTH dyno so I'm sure that's what it was and my car wasn't missing or anything before the first dyno but indeed it was a bad opti. That's probably what it was, the loose screws at low rpms but then as the rpms when up it had less vibration so I'd suggest maybe making another run after putting the rotor on.

BlackScreaminMachine

Yea it kept making power, but we will backed down 2 degrees, and followed exactly how you stated it. Having a Crane Fireball ignition gave it a few more over the program.