New to the board and am looking for input
I had a similar situation on my beater car. iIt would miss, surge at idle. Turned out the voltage regulator wasn't putting the correct volts out, and the car wasn't getting enough power to run everything. The idle surge was the computer trying to compensate by raising the idle to spin the alternator faster, and when it got there, would let the idle down, only to rise back up a split second later due to the drop in the voltage. Hope this helps.
ok here is an update.
I had the coil and the ICM tested in town and both tested out ok.
The Tech at the chevy dealership sugested that I pull the Idle Air control valve out and clean it out real good.
Well the good news is My Idle is fixed, and the car is not missing out near as bad as it was befor, but Now I can tell its not running on all cylenders. You can actually Hear either one or two come in and out, and its running rough as hell.
I cant help but wonder if I got a bad plug or two out of the set I bought.
I had the coil and the ICM tested in town and both tested out ok.
The Tech at the chevy dealership sugested that I pull the Idle Air control valve out and clean it out real good.
Well the good news is My Idle is fixed, and the car is not missing out near as bad as it was befor, but Now I can tell its not running on all cylenders. You can actually Hear either one or two come in and out, and its running rough as hell.
I cant help but wonder if I got a bad plug or two out of the set I bought.
It could be the plugs... Hmmm. I bought a set of Bosch +4s, turned out that 4 were bad!!!! so I pulled them but they wouldn't refund it so I purchased another set... now only 2 of the 4 are bad. It could be your problem too. I can see the spark jump from the porcelin to the block... the guy who stocked them must have dropped the box. My next set are NGK TR55s to go with the N2O for Christmas.
Just to let you know, the cap and rotor can go bad in the opti just like all the old school distributors.
I am not saying that its your problem but I replaced my opti at 134k and the optical part was still good but the cap and rotor were trashed.
It was still running but would stumble in lower RPMs right after restarting after driving for awhile.
I am not saying that its your problem but I replaced my opti at 134k and the optical part was still good but the cap and rotor were trashed.
It was still running but would stumble in lower RPMs right after restarting after driving for awhile.
Tell me about it.
It still freaks people out when I am at the parts store and they are picking up a cap and rotor for an old school chevy, bout 15 to 20 bucks.
I say your lucky look up the price of a cap and rotor for a 94 Z28.
When they see that price their eyes get real big.
It still freaks people out when I am at the parts store and they are picking up a cap and rotor for an old school chevy, bout 15 to 20 bucks.
I say your lucky look up the price of a cap and rotor for a 94 Z28.
When they see that price their eyes get real big.
LMAO yeah tell me about it, The first time I started priceing **** for this car I about had a heart failure.
i'm Used to the idea now that if it says LT* add a 100+ bucks to the normal price
i'm Used to the idea now that if it says LT* add a 100+ bucks to the normal price
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Nayr
LT1 Based Engine Tech
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Mar 3, 2023 08:34 PM



