go to a 275-60 tire.....

your still running without a cage?......when are you going to learn?

I was running 119@7200 with a 4.57 gear.....it was on the limiter about 50 foot or more before the end. If you go with more tire I think you will pick up. Then you get to add that 100# of roll bar

 

Great.. my wife is raggin' on me for running no cage..
Now I got you raggin' on me too

It just makes it so easy when the track doesn't give you any hell

I'm gonna go moly for the cage.. 60lbs or so? I'll find 60lbs to take out of the car.

what trans/stall combo did you have when you were doing 119 @ 7200?

I plan to do a 28" tire.. think she'll pick up mph / drop ET?

 

congrats on the 120 mph pass. You're really making me want to see what my PT4000 is capable of!
do a tubular k-member and lightweight carpet. that should be 45-50 lbs there without hacking the car up. do you still have your ABS? that would nearly close the gap. maybe for track visits only drop the front swaybar (if not already done), remove the front inner bumper, rear seats, spare, and jack. weight reduction is fun!

 

was a M6 back then

The drag front brakes are a good wt. difference. I'm not a fan of the bumper support coming out.

 

Nah, full street car, bumper supports stay in.

How do the drag front brakes do on the street... ?

Speaking of brakes.. my front calipers are sticking.. with the car in the air you have to put some effort into spinning the front wheels.

 

That's definitely not helping!

 

Mine do the same damn thing. I think every 4th gen I have worked on has that same drag to it.

Javier keep me up to dat if you can free it up at all. I would be interested in figuring out what it is.

I don't hasve the frt drag brakes on my car, I plan on going with the strang, they are not for street use

 

I think the caliper pistons are sticking. I'm gonna look into rebuilding my factory calipers and go from there... don't really want some china crap calipers on the car.

 

Javier, I have my original calipers that I'd sell you cheap if you're interested. They worked fine (spun freely) when I removed them to upgrade to LS1 brakes....shoot me a pm if you're interested

 

Congrats again Javier. I don't get around this board much anymore since having 3 kids but when I do it seems you continue to let me live through you with your car!! Someday I will be back throwin money at it. But until then keep going buddy!!

 

I used to rebuild my calipers, but I learned that after a lot of miles the piston and bore wear slightly, the piston ***** in the bore and causes it to stick, so just replacing the seals doesn't correct that. I started using the rebuilt units from NAPA (lifetime warranty) and never had a problem with them.

You know, disk brakes will always have a slight drag because since there is no spring to retract the piston into the cylinder (like drum brakes), they rely on the runout of the disk to push the brake pads back after you release the brake pedal.

 

One other thing, make sure that the caliper bolts are clean and well lubricated so the caliper is able to float freely and center itself on the disk.

 

Actually its the seals in the caliper that are designed to retract the piston just enough to not have drag on the brake. Sticking slide pins is usually the culprit though as said above.