Got a new Golen 383 w/ LE2 head/cam/intake and all the complementary parts. I have a couple of questions regrarding the swap....

Transmission days are numbered I figure. I have a stock 4L60E w/ 140k on it. I cant afford a heavy duty trans upgrade and torque converter w a stall just yet. This crate motor set me back a little bit. I want to get the 383 installed so i can drive the car. Its killing me sitting beside the car. LOL. I will be driving it around town only. No stipe or track use. How will my stock tq converter and transmission do with a Golen 383 and LE2 Head/Cam pckg pushing it. The cam is a 230/230. Ive got the cam card. I have a B&M shift kit thats just lying around the shop. So I thought...throw it in and lets go drive this thing. I got a little time since the computer is being reprogrammed. I understand that Im probably going to tear something up eventually but 4L60Es are cheap and there isnt really a market for them with 140k Miles so what are you guys thoughts?

Oil Pan Clearance? Will the Eagle crank from the 383 make contact with OE LT1 oil pan? Its a 94 Camaro oil pan.

Keyed harmonic balancer? I will be re-using my OE harmonic balancer. Ive heard that I might find an issue with the keyed fitting. Anybody made this swap before?

 

The motor will not like the stock stall, but you'll get by for now. You really need a converter, not just for performance sake. I suggest going with www.performabuilt.com. I have their level 2 transmission and converter and they're taking the abuse quite nicely.

You mean Chad at Golen didn't put the oil pan on for you? If it were my motor, I would not reuse the stock pan and use something like the Canton 242T. Also, I hope that Eagle crank of yours is FORGED and not CAST. If it's cast, I would send it right back.

You shouldn't have any problems with using the OE damper, assuming you are using the OE crank hub.

 

The pan came assembled on the engine but it was a race oil pan and its alot more than what i need for my street car. The bottom end is forged. The crank hub is all OE. Am I going to run the risk of anything by running a stock TQ conv?

 

If you use a stock pan you will need to clearance the pan (smack with a hammer) #1&2 rods hit pan on bottom #7&8 hit pan at rails with eagle crank from my experance.

 

Cool Thanks. Ive decided(influenced) that a good stall will be money well spent here. i am still unclear about this harmonic balancer issue tho.....

 

If you just bought this
https://www.camaroz28.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=773661
you bought one with forged rods but a CAST crank. Once you get it up & running let me know how it performs. I just bought a nearly identical motor except for mine has an LT4 hotcam instead of the LE2.2 cam.

Golen 383ci LT1 Street/Strip short block (I paid $3500)
• 4-Bolt Main GM Corvette Block
• Cast Eagle Crank, Internally Balanced Front and Rear
• Scat 4340 Forged 6” Rods
• SRP Forged Pistons
• Speed Pro Plasma-Moly Rings
• Clevite Rod & Main Bearings
• Full Rotating Assembly Dynamic Balanced
• ARP Main Studs
• Golen Spec Sheets & Set Up Guide

 

also, since this thing is internally balanced front & rear a stock flexplate would lead to a disaster. You gotta take the weight off of it to make it neutral balanced, otherwise the engine is gonna vibrate itself until it breaks the crank. A stock converter would work and not do damage to the motor, but wouldn't work all that well.

As for the harmonic balancer, the stock one is neutral balanced and should work fine in this application. The stock ones are also not keyed and can theoretically be put on in any position (again b/c they are neutral balanced).

 

I rode in the race car that it was in before it was eventually pulled and loaded into the back of my truck. Its pulls very hard. The cam was designed for the most midrange (useful) torque so i was impressed. It was in a light weight vette but still. You will be happy.

 

Flexplate - I have been advised to remove the weights. The original owner had a neutrally balanced flywheel and told to be sure and remove the weights. Is removing these weights pretty straight forward? Ive never been in there to see. This is the first engine pull for my car ever so Im kinda learning as I go

 

I will say a prayer for that motor. Chad + Golen + 383 + cast Eagle crank = kaboom. Happens more often than not.

 

It's a good thing golen motors make no power so it might last a little while.

 

I thought it would be a pretty good set-up for blasting around town. Im not goid to the track or strip. I didnt know that the cast Eagel crank was prone to any flaws. What usually happens? I havnt heard any horror stroys yet

 

https://www.camaroz28.com/forums/sho...t=broken+crank for starters.

They are VERY weak, and you don't have to have alot of HP or RPMs to break them. I suggest doing a Google search (not just cz28.com) because their failures extend far beyond the LT1 world and into Ford, Chevrolet, etc.

A friend of mine ordered a 383 from Chad @ Golen with the cast crank and it snapped at the front main while cruising through a parking lot with only 600 miles on it. I bought the broken short block and had it rebuilt into the motor in my signature. Additionally, Chad did nothing to assist with the problem, so to hell with Golen.

 

I'm in the same situation. Bought a 383 with a CAST eagle crank, LE2 heads, and hotcam. Only paid 2k for it and it only has 2,000 miles so I figure when (if?) it goes it goes & at that point I can look at a different rotating assembly and cam. Hopefully it will last 30,000-50,000 at least but who knows. I'm guessing the hotcam should hopefully make it less prone to a break.