Need O2 Info
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Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 275
Need O2 Info
I installed a new bosch O2 left side bank, because the left side on datamaster was reading a constant 1097mv. I have no idea if it is fixed as I have to activate my datamaster this friday to be able to use it again. At start up the left 02 would read something like 30.....647....1097 and would just stay there after that maybe drop to 1095 at best.
In short my question is what would cause this?
I do not know if it is fixed with the new O2 (Cannot rely on drivability as an answer, since I have two codes left to trouble shoot) as I have to get datamaster back up.
In short my question is what would cause this?
I do not know if it is fixed with the new O2 (Cannot rely on drivability as an answer, since I have two codes left to trouble shoot) as I have to get datamaster back up.
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Joined: Jun 2010
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I know they dont, im sorry for not clarifiying (spelling) this is on numerous attempts car usually goes into closed loop after two minutes or so. And pretty much like i said above after that...
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Joined: May 2010
Posts: 53
From: Baton Rouge, LA
Download FreeScan until you get Datamaster going. It'll cost you $0.00 and give you the O2 voltage, BLMs, and other info.
While I'm on the subject...how is Datamaster compared to Freescan? Anybody used both?
Freescan will also tell you which codes are being activated too...
While I'm on the subject...how is Datamaster compared to Freescan? Anybody used both?
Freescan will also tell you which codes are being activated too...
Last edited by mguidry629; Sep 15, 2010 at 02:14 PM. Reason: Addition
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From: Hell was full so they sent me to NJ
When you turn the key on, without starting the engine, the O2 sensors should read about 450mV. When you start the engine, they have to warm up. If you still have the AIR pump, and its working on startup as it should, the O2 sensor voltage should drop to single digits (e.g. - 3mV) as they warm up. At that point (205 seconds for the timeout) if the coolant is above ~140*F it will go into closed loop. Appears you are saying this is the point it goes above 1,000mV. I recall seeing 1,000+mV in the data log you sent me. I still didn't get a chance to review it in detail. Still a few people in front of you, and I've been extremely busy at work.
For the O2 sensor to stay at that value 1) faulty sensor - see if the new sensor helped; 2) its really running pig rich; 3) the sensor signal wire (sensor or harness) is shorted to the 12V heater wire.
For the O2 sensor to stay at that value 1) faulty sensor - see if the new sensor helped; 2) its really running pig rich; 3) the sensor signal wire (sensor or harness) is shorted to the 12V heater wire.
Last edited by Injuneer; Sep 16, 2010 at 05:16 AM.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 275
When you turn the key on, without starting the engine, the O2 sensors should read about 450mV. When you start the engine, they have to warm up. If you still have the AIR pump, and its working on startup as it should, the O2 sensor voltage should drop to single digits (e.g. - 3mV) as they warm up. At that point (205 seconds for the timeout) if the coolant is above ~140*F it will go into closed loop. Appears you are saying this is the point it goes above 1,000mV. I recall seeing 1,000+mV in the data log you sent me. I still didn't get a chance to review it in detail. Still a few people in front of you, and I've been extremely busy at work.
For the O2 sensor to stay at that value 1) faulty sensor - see if the new sensor helped; 2) its really running pig rich; 3) the sensor signal wire (sensor or harness) is shorted to the 12V heater wire.
For the O2 sensor to stay at that value 1) faulty sensor - see if the new sensor helped; 2) its really running pig rich; 3) the sensor signal wire (sensor or harness) is shorted to the 12V heater wire.
But I will look and see and diagnose from there, will update after checking on those things.
To help me out If i dont find anything as far as shorted wires or new sensor didnt help, then what would be some causes for the left side bank to run so rich??
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Joined: Nov 1998
Posts: 71,110
From: Hell was full so they sent me to NJ
I looked at your data log.
You have 4 trouble codes:
15-faulty coolant temp sensor (reading -40*F)
23-faulty inlet air temp sensor (reading -40*F)
32-EGR circulation
42-IC Circuit grounded
You need to clear up all 4 codes. The PCM is in default mode. It using huge amounts of knock retard to protect the engine... up to 15* of knock retard when you simply touch the throttle at idle. You even have 3* retard when throttle is closed.
The 1097mV left O2 sensor reading shows up immediately. Its allowing the PCM to go into closed loop, but is is not allowing learning or use of the BLM's. Could be a response to the screwed up left O2, could be the result of the fact it can't read the CTS or IAT sensors.
You are getting very frequent "data errors". Read the Datamaster guide. This can be the result of high voltage interference with the data wire.
Most of the time, things like TPS volts, IAC counts (a shade low), RPM vs target, air flow GPS, injector pulse widths, ignition advance look OK. But not all the time. There are some screwy injector pulse widths, over 5mSec at idle.
It should be idling in Cell 16. Its not. For some reason, its idling in Cell 5.
Get rid of the codes for CTS and IAT. Fix the driver's side O2 sensor. Don't worry about the EGR. Reset the PCM and that code will disappear, and won't come back until you drive the car for a while at moderate throttle, steady speed cruise. See how fast DTC 42 comes back. That could make it run rough, but its probably an intermittent condition.
You have 4 trouble codes:
15-faulty coolant temp sensor (reading -40*F)
23-faulty inlet air temp sensor (reading -40*F)
32-EGR circulation
42-IC Circuit grounded
You need to clear up all 4 codes. The PCM is in default mode. It using huge amounts of knock retard to protect the engine... up to 15* of knock retard when you simply touch the throttle at idle. You even have 3* retard when throttle is closed.
The 1097mV left O2 sensor reading shows up immediately. Its allowing the PCM to go into closed loop, but is is not allowing learning or use of the BLM's. Could be a response to the screwed up left O2, could be the result of the fact it can't read the CTS or IAT sensors.
You are getting very frequent "data errors". Read the Datamaster guide. This can be the result of high voltage interference with the data wire.
Most of the time, things like TPS volts, IAC counts (a shade low), RPM vs target, air flow GPS, injector pulse widths, ignition advance look OK. But not all the time. There are some screwy injector pulse widths, over 5mSec at idle.
It should be idling in Cell 16. Its not. For some reason, its idling in Cell 5.
Get rid of the codes for CTS and IAT. Fix the driver's side O2 sensor. Don't worry about the EGR. Reset the PCM and that code will disappear, and won't come back until you drive the car for a while at moderate throttle, steady speed cruise. See how fast DTC 42 comes back. That could make it run rough, but its probably an intermittent condition.
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 275
I looked at your data log.
You have 4 trouble codes:
15-faulty coolant temp sensor (reading -40*F)
23-faulty inlet air temp sensor (reading -40*F)
32-EGR circulation
42-IC Circuit grounded
You need to clear up all 4 codes. The PCM is in default mode. It using huge amounts of knock retard to protect the engine... up to 15* of knock retard when you simply touch the throttle at idle. You even have 3* retard when throttle is closed.
The 1097mV left O2 sensor reading shows up immediately. Its allowing the PCM to go into closed loop, but is is not allowing learning or use of the BLM's. Could be a response to the screwed up left O2, could be the result of the fact it can't read the CTS or IAT sensors.
You are getting very frequent "data errors". Read the Datamaster guide. This can be the result of high voltage interference with the data wire.
Most of the time, things like TPS volts, IAC counts (a shade low), RPM vs target, air flow GPS, injector pulse widths, ignition advance look OK. But not all the time. There are some screwy injector pulse widths, over 5mSec at idle.
It should be idling in Cell 16. Its not. For some reason, its idling in Cell 5.
Get rid of the codes for CTS and IAT. Fix the driver's side O2 sensor. Don't worry about the EGR. Reset the PCM and that code will disappear, and won't come back until you drive the car for a while at moderate throttle, steady speed cruise. See how fast DTC 42 comes back. That could make it run rough, but its probably an intermittent condition.
You have 4 trouble codes:
15-faulty coolant temp sensor (reading -40*F)
23-faulty inlet air temp sensor (reading -40*F)
32-EGR circulation
42-IC Circuit grounded
You need to clear up all 4 codes. The PCM is in default mode. It using huge amounts of knock retard to protect the engine... up to 15* of knock retard when you simply touch the throttle at idle. You even have 3* retard when throttle is closed.
The 1097mV left O2 sensor reading shows up immediately. Its allowing the PCM to go into closed loop, but is is not allowing learning or use of the BLM's. Could be a response to the screwed up left O2, could be the result of the fact it can't read the CTS or IAT sensors.
You are getting very frequent "data errors". Read the Datamaster guide. This can be the result of high voltage interference with the data wire.
Most of the time, things like TPS volts, IAC counts (a shade low), RPM vs target, air flow GPS, injector pulse widths, ignition advance look OK. But not all the time. There are some screwy injector pulse widths, over 5mSec at idle.
It should be idling in Cell 16. Its not. For some reason, its idling in Cell 5.
Get rid of the codes for CTS and IAT. Fix the driver's side O2 sensor. Don't worry about the EGR. Reset the PCM and that code will disappear, and won't come back until you drive the car for a while at moderate throttle, steady speed cruise. See how fast DTC 42 comes back. That could make it run rough, but its probably an intermittent condition.
As well I was going to log the run after I finished but Datamaster would not find my COM3 port and wasted my last 5 trials just trying to get it to connect. I will have another one out to you this weekend I hope and Will update you as well on what I see or further questions.
The questions I have are the first, my cables are ran idiotically if you ask me around and under and well u name it they are prob causing intereference Id imagine with the data cable??
The second would be the part about the cell 5 when it should be in cell 16 what does this exactly mean and would this have been a cause of the knock sensor and it being faulty?
Im going to read over your site again tonight I saved it into word and trust me I read through it every chance I get, thats how I learn things repetition. Thanks again Injuneer!!
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Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 275
As well forgot to mention I had replaced the Coolant temp sensor that is in the water pump housing, and just realized that, that code referred to that sensor? Or is it another coolant sensor that it is reporting faulty?
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Still have the question from post #11, because I had changed that before I even bought the cable...so the PCM shows the readings through that sensor correct? A possible broken or shorted harness, or would that not cause the -40 reading?
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Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 922
sure it could cause an invalid reading... however i would suspect the sensor or connection to the sensor before suspecting the wiring harness.