need to "make" a coolent bypass tube
ok, i need a new tube on the back of the heads. i'd like to avoid going to the dealer to get a whole new set up. i 've done a search, but nothing helps.
i did find out that the "coolent bypass tube" is also a vent?? i was looking at the exploded view on shoebox's site, but i don't see where it goes to on the water pump? i'm missing something here. also, is that tube a necessity? can someone explain to me exactly what it does? why is it there? can i just connect the two lines together using some brass fittings? also, there is a flex pipe looking thing that is on the rear intake by the egr. it has been crimped shut, (i'm assuming it was a freebie mod done by the previous owner) what is that for? do they have just a cover plate for that ? any help would be appreciated, thanks~
i did find out that the "coolent bypass tube" is also a vent?? i was looking at the exploded view on shoebox's site, but i don't see where it goes to on the water pump? i'm missing something here. also, is that tube a necessity? can someone explain to me exactly what it does? why is it there? can i just connect the two lines together using some brass fittings? also, there is a flex pipe looking thing that is on the rear intake by the egr. it has been crimped shut, (i'm assuming it was a freebie mod done by the previous owner) what is that for? do they have just a cover plate for that ? any help would be appreciated, thanks~
The corrugated tube ran from #8 exhaust manifold runner to the back of the intake manifold. That is the EGR riser tube, that supplies exhaust gas to the EGR valve. SJS Manufacturing makes a block-off plate for the diamond shaped connection where the tube connects to the intake. He also makes one for the EGR valve, which you could also remove since it is serving no useful purpose. We have to assume you have headers without an EGR connection, or someone plugged the connection.
The tube at the rear of the heads is a "steam tube".... it allows air and water vapor bubbles to get out of the rear of the heads. Without that tube, you can overheat the #7 and #8 combustion chambers.... big problem. It does not "bypass" anything, and it does not allow coolant to move from one head to the other. It directs the coolant and bubble back to the passenger side tank on the radiator to an "air separator".... on the later models (95 and up?) the flow from the steam tube flows through the throttle body before it goes to the radiator.
If you don't want to buy a new steam tube, you could get fittings to screw into the holes in the heads, and run rubber or braided steel hoses to the front to connect to the radiator separator connection. A friend of mine with a mega-shot of nitrous runs individual -10AN braided hoses from the rear of each head.
http://www.automotiverebuilder.com/a...nts/99928l.gif
The tube at the rear of the heads is a "steam tube".... it allows air and water vapor bubbles to get out of the rear of the heads. Without that tube, you can overheat the #7 and #8 combustion chambers.... big problem. It does not "bypass" anything, and it does not allow coolant to move from one head to the other. It directs the coolant and bubble back to the passenger side tank on the radiator to an "air separator".... on the later models (95 and up?) the flow from the steam tube flows through the throttle body before it goes to the radiator.
If you don't want to buy a new steam tube, you could get fittings to screw into the holes in the heads, and run rubber or braided steel hoses to the front to connect to the radiator separator connection. A friend of mine with a mega-shot of nitrous runs individual -10AN braided hoses from the rear of each head.
http://www.automotiverebuilder.com/a...nts/99928l.gif
I bought some egr block offs from street and performance when I did my engine swap, they were like 30 bucks. You could always make your own with some plate metal and a gasket.
The steam vent tube is a necessity. I bought a new upper rad hose from pep boys and it had a small hose coming from the middle of it, and i just used a hose splice and connected the vent hose to the hose in the upper rad hose.
The steam vent tube is a necessity. I bought a new upper rad hose from pep boys and it had a small hose coming from the middle of it, and i just used a hose splice and connected the vent hose to the hose in the upper rad hose.
Originally posted by slmdgmc
I bought some egr block offs from street and performance when I did my engine swap, they were like 30 bucks. You could always make your own with some plate metal and a gasket.
The steam vent tube is a necessity. I bought a new upper rad hose from pep boys and it had a small hose coming from the middle of it, and i just used a hose splice and connected the vent hose to the hose in the upper rad hose.
I bought some egr block offs from street and performance when I did my engine swap, they were like 30 bucks. You could always make your own with some plate metal and a gasket.
The steam vent tube is a necessity. I bought a new upper rad hose from pep boys and it had a small hose coming from the middle of it, and i just used a hose splice and connected the vent hose to the hose in the upper rad hose.
thanks for your responses guys... tell me if this would be ok. plumb both the heads into braded hose, run the hose to a brazed fitting on the passenger side radiator. that seems like all i have to do right?
and as far as the egr valve goes..... i guess it was never working then. branden, do you know if bryan had it hooked up or not?
it passed smog up here jsut the way he had it, so if that's the case, i'll just get the block off plates.. from reading what injuneer said, it seems like that egr riser tube MUST be installed in order for the egr to function properly. which means that the egr was never working when i went thru smog.... i don't mind removing it and the egr valve, although herter tuned it to run an egr. is that gonna make a difference??
and as far as the egr valve goes..... i guess it was never working then. branden, do you know if bryan had it hooked up or not?
it passed smog up here jsut the way he had it, so if that's the case, i'll just get the block off plates.. from reading what injuneer said, it seems like that egr riser tube MUST be installed in order for the egr to function properly. which means that the egr was never working when i went thru smog.... i don't mind removing it and the egr valve, although herter tuned it to run an egr. is that gonna make a difference??
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