I have a 98 Z28 M6. I want to take off as much weight as possible but i don't want to gut the car. I like my interior. So far this is what i have done:

Spare & jack
AC compessor
wiper reserve
upper/lower control arms
K member
carbon fiber DS
headers
13lb flywheel
AC condensor
removed cats
DS loop
24lb battery in rear

How much would the SS hood & Bear brake system save me? What other things am I missing? Any comments will be greatly appreciated. Thanks

 

Well I have a fiberglass Suncoast Creations SS hood and a guy I work with has the stock hood mine wieghs a helluva lot less than his. Also I think that (and dont qoute me) an underdrive pully might save you a little (very little but some). You could also get a small fuel cell but if you drive on the street you would be stopping for gas ALOT. You could also remove the factory sound system if you dont mind not having a radio, that would save a few more lbs.
Get some lighter wheels if you got the ca$h. Get a Carbon Fiber or aluminum driveshaft.

 

heater core (if your really hard core)
carbeau seats (or equivalent)
there is someone that makes a VERY PLAIN hood for $350 or so out of carbon fiber

98TA rims are VERY cheap and wiegh a good 5 lbs less a piece
thats a lot or rotational mass

 

there was a guy at ls1.com or tech that had a huge list with the amount of weight u could/should lose if removed...

it was a huge thread that had about everything listed

 

Here's a link to the LS1Tech.com thread:

LS1Tech.com Weight Reduction Thread

Baer brakes will hurt you, if they are the ones that require 17" wheels. A set of light weight racing wheels, like the Bogarts, or slightly heavier Welds will save you a huge amount, and that's rotating weight.

What you can take out depends how serious you are about weight reduction, and whether you want to build a car strictly for the track, or for occasional street use. Front sway bar is a good example. This probably isn't the best fourm to post this question on.

 

-Impac beams
-strip the undercoating on the car
-goto lexan windows/back glass but I would leave it on the windshield
-they make a composit rear quarter panel, very nice savings
-remove all your emmsions, (air, egr, etc)
-Alu drive shaft
-Lakewood bellhousing (similar weight but better safty)
-good set of drag lights, or if your looking for road, BBS or similar rim

 

it said you like your interior but if you don't use the back seats and you just want them to look stock just take out the seat belts think it is like 7 pounds

 

VFNfiberglass.com makes a 11 pound hood. it is a mold of the stock hood but very thin. its a lot less when comparing to a stock hood which weighs 43 pounds. every other fiberglass hood company weighs at least 35 pounds if not more.

 

After reading that thread from LS1tech.com it looks like you could lose almost a full second in the 1/4.

Bad thing: You would have a very fast car.......that was a piece of ****. I would rather chop up an old vega or something. Damn a bunch of ****in up a bad *** F-body. Sounds like something the ricer boys would do.

 

There are a few inexpensive things you can do that won't affect the way the car performs. You can loose 50 lbs pretty easily by removing the door bars, abs, and your supplemental restraint air bags (different steering wheel is lighter also) ie momo (what I use).

There are a bunch of other items listed on the link that would be helpful also. Rotational weight saving is very important also. This can be incorporated by the use of drag rims such as Bogart rims, Weld rims, or Centerline rims.

Will84, regarding your comment, respectfully there are many guys including myself whom are highly modified and our cars drive very well. I can attest to a few guys whom you can barely tell from the look of it that the car was highly altered. My car is approx 750-800hp and besides for the fact that I have a roll cage, aftermarket seats and a different steering wheel, using stock sized rims, it rides very close to stock...actually better in my opinion. Of course, I can't run a slalom course or take twisties at abnormally higher speeds; I don't use the car in that manner. If I wanted a car whose performance was for twisties, I would drive a Porsche which in my opinion is structurally designed for this type of use.

 

I'm talking about carpet removal, heater and A/C removal, bla bla bla....and all those other little 1 and 2 lb pieces. To me that is going too far. Unless it is going to be a car that is strictly built for racing and nothing else.

 

How much savings is there in seats? Corbeau vs stock?

 

My stock Formula non-power cloth drivers seat weighed 35#. I replaced it with a Corbeau Forza, with "slider" mount. The seat only weighed about 15#. But the d@mn slider mount weighed another 10#, netting me only a 10# savings. I think once I get the seating position settled, I'll replace the slider mount with fixed brackets and save another 5# or so.

Remember also, if you use an aftermarket seat, NHRA requires that you attach it to the cross-bar of the roll bar, which adds a couple of pounds. Where I go, tech usually ignores the fact that I have a "brace" against the back of the seat, but it isn't attached.

You can lose weight in some intersting places....

-there are 2 horns, ditch one of them

-there is a small plastic cylinder that holds vacuum for the heat/AC controls... who needs heat and AC controls?

-if you've deleted the airbags, delete the sensors, control box and wiring.

-if you've stuffed the 3 center A/C vents with gauges, you no longer need all that ductwork behind them.

-radio, speakers and antenna.

-unused wiring, from things like AIR pump, cruise control, IC module, MAF sensor, A/C, etc..... yes I have deleted the IC module and MAF sensor, but the replacement 8 LS1 coils, and MoTeC speed-density computer probably netted a "0" gain. Point is there is a ton of unused wire in the car after you start disconnecting things.

-small plastic catch can, in place of coolant reservoir. Works if you've already moved the battery into the back.

-if you run nitrous, a 10# bottle weighs less than a 15#... , aluminum brackets weigh less than steel, putting the bottle in the back seat requires less braided hose than if its in the hatch, etc.

-lightweight rear axle components... spool in place of the posi, gun-drilled axles, drilled hub flanges, light-weight ring gear.

-chrome moly saves about 40%..... my roll bar weighs about 60#... would have been 100# in carbon steel.

-plastic t-tops.... haven't done this one yet, but I picked up the plastic top panel that a guy cut off his coupe for a t-top conversion. Cut the roof panel in 1/2, and it looks like I can make some "temporary" tops for track-only that weigh significantly less than the glass tops. Paint them black and they will look fine.

Click on "Step into my office..." link below for pic of Corbeau seat, radio filler panel, light-weight el-cheapo Grant steering wheel.

 

Thanks! Your car looks great!!!