125-150 shot max forged crank, rods, and pistons?!?!? There are people pushing stock short blocks with LE 2 heads/LE 1 cam and a 150 shot... as for the $1500, that is after price of install (only another $200 through friend of a friend who is doing everything else to the car). For fuel I actually do have a walbro 255 fuel pump, 42 lb/hr injectors, along with a page long list of other parts I got trying to just run LE 1 Heads/cam with a 150 shot (headers, rocker arms, etc). How much does balancing generally run for?? Is it going to be a neccessity to rev out to 6500-6800 rpms with N20? If I go with the forged crank, H beam rods, and forged aluminum pistons will I be good for LE 3 heads/cam and atleast a 200 shot??? If not I am seriously considering just buying new rings and bearings, which will end up costing me around $300 with install and just running the car with the LE 1 head/cam and a 150 shot till it dies, just cuz right now it doesnt seem practical to spend another couple grand ($700 more on heads, plus 1500 more on short block) on the short block unless I can atleast hit 600 rwhp... (Just cuz the couple grand could go toward a crotch rocket that I was planning on getting soon.)

 

Well if you can get the all the machine work and assembly done for 200$ you got one on everyone here. I'd go for it.

 

I guess the other big question is balancing going to be neccesary and how much does it generally cost at a machine shop? cuz $1500 in parts will cover a decent shortblock but I dunno about the cost of balancing..

 

$200 only includes install, No machine work

 

Just replace what needs to be replaced. What do you mean by "the rings are starting to go bad"? Have you torn it down and inspected it? It may not need a "rebuild" and just need to be "freshened up" (rings, bearing, etc.).

Rich

 

The guy who pulled my heads inspected it and said two of the cylinders rings are starting to "blow by" and that he'd tear the shortblock apart and replace the rings and hone the cylinders if I want to do that... He said all I need is rings, not a rebuild.. But I was contemplating just spending a little extra cash and just getting a better crank, rods, and pistons so I could run more nitrous and go with a bigger cam without having to worry about blowing the motor, after looking into it I know $1500 will be enough to build a pretty decent bottom end but I have no clue what balancing a motor costs which seems to be the only machine work that would need to be done... Also don't know if balancing is neccessary just to rev out to 6500-6800 rpms with atleast a 200 shot... clue me in here a little. Like I said before if 600+ rwhp is unrealistic with $1500 into the shortblock WITH MACHINE WORK if neccessary (balancing), I will prolly just do what you said and replace what needs to be replaced (rings) and run a smaller shot with a smaller cam, cuz I know around 500 rwhp is attainable with a stock shortblock

 

If your crank is in good shape, you can just refresh the motor like Rich said. New rings, bearings, polished crank and having a machine shop clean and check the block (with a light hone). You can reuse the pistons, connecting rods and crank. I just did this and the engine parts cost was reasonable.

Once you get caught in the "while I'm there syndrome" you can always rationalize spending more and more. Pretty soon, a $500 refresh becomes a $3000 rebuild for 600 rwhp or more. You can always spend more for higher power.

My challenge was to keep it from getting out of hand and keep from spending more than I initially wanted.

 

Since youre running nitrous at the least I would change the pistons.

 

are the pistons the first thing to go? how reliable is the stock shortblock, if in good shape with around 500rwhp? The only thing that I am slightly worried about is "refreshing" the motor and then having something break (rod, piston, crank) right after doing so cuz I know i'll be kicking myself in the @ss for not replacing that one thing..

 

On a budjet I would do like Rich said and freshen,no machine work. Hone the cyls in the car port and put in rings, rod and mains and cam brgs,timing set oil pump and gaskets.Put solvent in the head ports to check for leakers and hand lap any that do,or better all of them.
Ya are looking as maybe $500.00 in parts and don't go cheap on the brg's-- ain't a place to try to save money same for oil pump.
Put her together and go have fun.
There are guys down here running 100-150 shot on never been apart engines,just don't overrev and keep it fat(rich) and happy.

 

actually I am having the heads rebuilt and ported by lloyd, and also going with his cam (LE 1) so those should be fine. for timing set I am using the cloyes double roller. I am using the B body head gasket and will prolly just pick up the rest of the gaskets (intake, etc) from autozone. The cylinders will be honed, the obvious must to get the rings to set.. WHAT RINGS, ROD, MAIN AND CAM BEARINGS SHOULD I GO WITH EXACTLY? ARE OEM BEARINGS FINE? IS THERE A BETTER UPGRADE? ALSO WHAT OIL PUMP TO GO WITH EXACTLY?

about the revs... I will need to rev out to atleast 6200 rpms with the cam that I will be using, and will want to be running the 150 shot (hopefully around 500 rwhp or more with the heads/cam/nitrous combo after dyno tune.)

 

I would go with a name brand file to fit ductile iron ring,Clevitte H brgs for all.There are several oil pumps ya can buy with the pickup allready installed,Melling, Manley,ect. A standard volume will do.Get the ARP pump drive and get rid of the plastic one.Get ARP head and main bolts as the factory ones can't be used again.The main bolts or studs need to be the ones for the baffle(Call ARP for #).Get Fel Pro intake gasket and head gaskets and elimanate a bunch of brain damage after ya get it running, the rest can be most any brand.

\The reason for the file to fit is to get the end gap correct(for NO2) and to allow for cyl wear. Get Seal Power,Hastings,or some good name brand and NO molly they won't like the hose.

6200 is OK but don't take it to 7200 every shift(rod bolts) they won't like it.

 

So with the clevite H bearings, and ARP main bolts would 6500 rpms and a 125-150 shot be OK?? I know its pushing a lot of luck revving that high with N20 without touchin the bottom end, but with the new upgraded bearings and main bolts would that be straight, I am just wondering cuz if so I will prolly go with the LE 2 heads/cam package which will clearly make a lot more power with the N20..

-Also what rod bearings to go with from the following?
CLE-CB663H
CLE-CB663HD
CLE-CB663HX
CLE-CB663HXD

-What about main bearings?
CLE-MS909H
CLE-MS909HX
CLE-MS909HG

-There is a sh1tload of rings to narrow down from, don't have engine specs on hand, What part number rings to use that will work, with the file to fit??

-Is this the correct pump for a LT1?
MOR-22125

-What is the part number for the ARP pump drive, that I cant even find??

-Which cam bearings to go with out of the following
-CLE-SH290S (Steel-Backed Micro Babbit)
-CLE-SH1349S (Steel-Backed Aluminum Alloy)

Do I honestly need a new oil pump and arp pump drive?? My car has only 61,000 miles on it... grr... kindof pisses me off that the rings are even going bad with only 61k, I think it may be just from sitting so much, the car sits 8 months a year for the last 3 years (since i got it.). If these are a reccommended replacement

Thanks for your help man

 

Oil pump is automatic, don't put it in and ruin a rebuild trying to save a dollar and you will kick your own a**. Not to mention that it's gonna cost a bunch more the second time-- lot more than a pump,by at least 1500-2000 dollars Soooo a $40.00 pump doesn't look so bad,does it.
Rods- CB663H
Mains- MS909H
Cam-SH1349S
I use these brgs in all my customer motors and my own.
ARP pump drive#- ARP-134-7901
If it is stock ya got a 4" bore depending who's brand ya get on the part number. NO MOLLY

* Package includes the pickup factory welded to the oil pump for a simple, bolt-on installation
* High-volume Moroso oil pump provides up to 25% more oil to provide superior lubrication at higher engine speeds
* Moroso Oil Pump Pickups are precision bent for precise fit; wire mesh screen traps debris without restricting flow
* Pickup orientation ensures optimum 1/4" clearance from bottom of pan, eliminating the need to measure, align or weld
* Orientation also ensures that the pickup is placed "where the oil is" under demanding racing and street performance conditions
* Includes pump mounting stud, nut, and washer
* Use with heavy-duty Moroso Oil Pump Shaft No. 22070 for SBC and No. 22080 for BBC, or other similar hardened steel shafts with steel sleeves

No. Description/Application
22125 Oil Pump and Pickup Package, Small Block Chevy, 8-1/4" depth pan, standard-volume pump
Fits Moroso Pan Nos. 19510, 19520, 20180, 20181, 20182, 20190, 20191, 20200, 20205, 20230, 21010, 21015,
22135 Oil Pump and Pickup Package, Small Block Chevy, 8-1/4" depth pan, high-volume pump
Fits Moroso Pan Nos. 19510, 19520, 20180, 20181, 20182, 20190, 20191, 20200, 20205, 20230, 21010, 21015,
22145 Oil Pump and Pickup Package Small Block Chevy, stock 7 1/2" pan depth, high-volume pump. Fits Stock GM Pans
Choose what pan ya have and get the part #

 

On a nitrous motor the rod bearings are usually what gets the load of it all, spun bearings are common because of detonation, the next would be the pistons upper ring land (crown to ring). With RPMs added in the mix you will need that nitrous system dialed in very good.