I'm getting ready to change the plugs and wires in my car and was wondering two things.... 1. what kind of pulls and wores you all recommend. 2. How do i get to the plugs in the back of the bay? Thanks for your help!

Later,

Mike

 

I like the NGK TR55VX (7164) plugs. As for wires I have the MSD 8.5mm Super Conductor. You will have to remove the "Y" pipe to gain better (Not much) access to the rear Plugs. Good Luck!

 

I just finished doing the Taylor Over the Valve Cover setup.
I did it over two days by myself but like said above two people really helps things.

I only removed the belt, belt tensioner and the alternator to run my wires on the passenger side.
Some loosen the powersteering pump to remove the wires but I wasn't planning on routing them through there again so I just cut the old plug wires and pulled them out.

If you don't have headers then I would just get the stock replacements for now. They are a good wire and will last if you route them back to the factory location.

Good luck.

 

The easiest way is probably to remove the Y-pipe. Soak all the bolts with WD-40 (best done the night before) and remove them. The Y-pipe and cat should drop right out. Doing this, will give you access to all of the plugs from under the car, except for plug #2. For that one, it's easiest to remove the alternator to get at it from the top.

If you're into doing things the hard way (that is, not removing the Y-pipe), make sure you have a lot of time on your hands and a lot of band-aids for your hands and arms.
Here's the best method (without Y-pipe removal) found so far:

PLUG ACCESS TOOLS REQUIRED COMMENTS
1 Top Socket w/ Swivel Easy
3 Top Socket w/ Swivel Easy
5 Bot Socket w/ Swivel Slightly tricky
7 Bot Socket w/ Swivel Watch out for O2 sensor
2 Top Socket w/ Open End AC & Exhaust AIR Tubes make it NASTY
4 Top Socket w/ Swivel Completely blind on this one
6 Bot Socket w/ Swivel Difficult to reach, but doable
8 Bot Socket w/ Swivel Skinny arms are a MUST


1. Be sure to replace the heat shield covers on plugs 6, 7, and 8.

2. If you're changing the wires, be sure to route the #7 wire through the factory heat shield that runs between the exhaust manifold and the block. If it makes contact with the manifold, it's going to burn right through.

3. Use anti-seize compound on new plugs. The factory didn't which made removal that much more difficult.

4. You may want to do the easiest plugs first, (saving #2 for last) to give yourself a sense of accomplishment and to boost your self-confidence.

 

its really not that bad.i've done a few of them now and can do it in about 2 or 3 hours. now i do have kinda small arms so from under the car i can reach the #4.6 and 8 plugs and get the #2 from the top after removing the alternator (10min.)

 

There's supposed to be heat shields on plug wires 6, 7, and 8 at the plug boot? I only have a heat shield on the 7 plug wire at the plug.

Also, the heat shield on the driver's side of the block for the 7 wire--is that shield supposed to be bolted down tight? My shield was only bolted down part of the way--I haven't tried tightening it because the bolt looks old and rusty and I don't want to break it off...

 

DO NOT DROP THE Y-PIPE!!!!!
Passenger side:

Remove the ALT and the passenger side motor mount. Once the motor mount blot is out you can jack it up about 3-4" giving you total access to all plugs on the passenger side.

If you using stock A/C delco plug wires you can wiggle out the old plug wires from under the P.S pump and wiggle the new wires in.
NOTE: Be carefull and do not break any of the wire holders as you can reuse them and they nessacery to keep the plug wires off of the belts/pullys.

Driver side:

The first plug (front) easy to get to from up top, The next 3 will be from under the car (easiest way). The back plug will be a little tricky since the 02 sensor is in its way but nothing bad.

Wires for the driver side are straight forward with the exception of the #7 wire since you have to fish the new wire into the metal block retainer to keep it from burning on the maniflod.

Take a long look at how everything is ran from the factory as your taking it apart and put it back the same way. This will make sure no wires will get burnt up, torn by the belts etc......

Should take you 3-4hrs MAX the first time and around 2hrs from there after!!

ONCE AGAIN DUE NOT DROP THE YPIPE...... Please remove the motor mount its so muck easier!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Feel free to email me with any ?s and Ill give you my Phone # and help you out.

Later,
Jason Coffman