I've got a 1996 Camaro Z28 LT1 V8 5.7L and I need help making it a demon on wheels. I need to make it the fastest car in town; able to out run supercharged Mustangs and Lightings and modded Firebirds w/ nos.

Here's a few specs on the car as of right now. Its currently already has many performance mods on it and reaches 110mph in a 1/4 mile in fouth gear, never shifting to fifth. I've purchased the car from another owner and want to make it my own by bringing out the true beast. I've asked around and most ppl are telling me that about the only other thing I can do it put bigger fuel injectors on it or make it a LT4. However, that can't be all when I see the same engine reaching speeds up to 130 in 1/4 mile.

Here's what we're working with:

LT1-V8-5.7L-aready pushing around 350hp

K&N air
BBK Headers
3.42 gears
1.6 roller rockers
LT4 hot cam
Fastchip by Edwright
New TPS
Borla type exhaust with flowmasters
Posi rear
Rebuilt high performance transmission
- Z-Clutch pack
- HD Servo 1st and 2nd
- Kevlar drum belt
- Racing sprocket
- Shift kit
- HD Shell
- Billet 2nd

That's about sums it up. Unless you want to know about the whole package: t-tops, 2 10" JL Audio subs housed in a stealth box, 450W Kenwood amp, JVC receiver, custom red and black interior, Corvette rims 17" on front 18" on back, and running Kumho Estas.

What my goal is to do is get this car at least up to 130mph in a 1\4 mile. However, I need help on doing this. If you have any suggestion on what to buy or do, what brand to change it to, or whatever it is you're thinking it would be much appreciated.

Oh, and the only problem I seem to be having with the car is an exhaust leak I can't find and the transmission is acting funny with overdrive. It will shift into overdrive in a low gear or when idling, however, when on the open road the overdrive doesn't seem to work. The car just stays in drive the whole time. Any suggestions or just get a diagnostics ran?

 

well you need to decide what direction you want to go and how much you want to spend, to go that fast n/a you would prolly need an AFR headed big inch lt1(383,396,402). Then there is the aftercooled supercharger setups and Nitrous, just do a search for things and look around the board for a while, you'll get a good idea of what it takes. I hope you have lots of money too, it ain't gonna be cheap

 

thanks for the suggestions. i actually don't have a lot of money right now. these are my future plans. i'll be adding on one mod at a time as i save the up money to do so. a $3500 supercharger has acutally been on my mind for a while now. i would like to achieve those speeds without nitrous b/c to tell you the truth it sort of scares me. i've seen too many engines blow up b/c people didn't know what they were doing. any suggestions on what's causing the tranny to at as it is?

 

Your tranny issue sounds like electrical problems, most likely with one of the shift solenoids.

 

Uh, how are you shifting into 4th (and not 5th) at the end of the track if you have an automatic tranny? They have only 4 gears, and you shouldnt have to shift into OD at the end with 3.42's.

 

shift solenoids huh? tell me if i'm wrong but a scan will pick that up won't it? actually, everytime i've ran it i've kept it in OD. if you haven't figured it out yet i'm sort of a newbie to everything. i'm trying to learn as i go. whatever the last gear is it doesn't shift it. at the end of the 1\4 the car is running somewhere between 4500 and 5500rpms and between the reprogrammed shift points and the shift kit i've had installed doesn't allow a shift until about 6000rpms when running on the track. otherwise it'll shift normally during normal driving. i had a friend that builds his own racers from srcap set that up for me. he's the same one that rebuilt the tranny.

 

Could be a possibility...but I'm not the best with automatic transmissions. The 4L60E has a few shift solenoid problems...they also have a lot of valve body problems too, so it is really hard to tell without riding in the vehicle.

If you have anything electrical, it will usually show up on a scan unless it is very intermittent.

 

To run 130MPH in the 1/4-mile, you're going to need over 600 flywheelHP in a 3,500# car. Not likely you can add 250+HP to your current setup without using nitrous or a big boost S/C. Neither of those is compatible with a stock bottom end. You're looking at more cubic inches, a strengthened rotating assembly and some good heads. I don't see that happening for $3,000. There are people who have taken stock block LT1's into the 10's.... but its sort of hit-or-miss on how long a setup like that will last, IMHO.

 

Not with that budget.... at least not with any kind of reliability.

For right now you could concentrate on; ported heads, better camshaft, nitrous & fuel system, then budget more money on suspension.

-Mindgame

 

that's exactally the type of advice that i'm look for! better camshaft? what is the differance in the cam and camshaft. and what on the fuel system and suspension would you do. remember i'm just starting out here so i'm pretty lost on which direction to go.

 

is this your daily driver? if your goal is 130 than don't waste your time changing cams 5 times. if you want to stick to that goal its going to cost you well over $10,000 for the motor, then you have to set up the suspension, cage, and other safety gear. if you have around 3500 you could rebulid the short block with forged internals and run the stock heads untill you can afford a head/cam combo. It sounds like your goals are a little out of reach as they are for most people on this board. to run that fast you basically have to turn the car into a dedicated drag car.

 

i sort have figured that my goal is a bit out there considering this is my daily driver unless i want to refuel twice a day. i've been doing a lot of looking around coupled with some research and i think that 110 is fairly close to average. however, i think that i'm still going to beef up the car a bit more. there's a guy with a ford lighting and one with a modded up firebird with nitrous that needs to be put in their places. i've had all the hot air that i can take.

 

yea, now your thinking within range, look up lloid on the board, he does great porting, close to 400 rwhp with his stage two, which costs around 1700 with the cam, that will put you in the low 12's set up right.

 

lightning huh and sc stangs.. take some weight out(speakers mostly) and spray it.just get accurate info on what to use. try to use wet shot.the best part about spray is that its on demand. its not constantly beating on your motor and its there when you need it. just my .02 or and do a loyd head job and cam.

 

i tend to disagree with you on that last statement, haveing a head/cam car will see less abuse than hiting it with a 150 shot. Your right you won't have the power all the time but then you just slam the rotating assembly with a massive amount of fuel/air, it can take it fairly well but if you don't rev it to 7k all the time in a head/cam car you'll be fine.