I have 96 ws-6

Getting ready to replace the motor. If you look at my mod list below you will see what im working with and also were im goin with it. Im going to tackle the motor swap myself so i can really learn my car and know its done correct and not half assed. I dont really know how to work the forums but have consistenly been to this one with my online inquiries. I have seen injuneer post many answers to questions and would hope he and others who have the knowledge of my questions in my mod list as well as any other suggestions for me.

Ive already got the longblock paid for and have the intake (ported for monoblade and other mods done to it) and have n20 kit and the LTCC and ls7 coilpacks but will be purchasing the the rest of the parts in the next month or so and hope to be driving it in July. any help would be awesome even if its the protocol of using this forum. Thanks in advance. I am assuming the motor will have 450-460 at the crank(hope closer to 470 but im realistic with the heads) so around 375- 385 rwhp( depending on what the dana 60 eats up) before the n20.

My mod list:
-383 stroker forged internals
-modified and ported intake with monoblade tb
-stock lt1 ported heads
-ls7 coils with LTCC
-healthy cam, 1.6 rr
-n2o plate system(monoblade) shootin - 150-200
-strange dana 60 wt 373 gears
-spec clutch
-will have lt headers(undecided but looking at tpis)
-will have true dual 3"exhaust with x pipe
-really considering a nitrogen assist or pusher system for the n2o
-will have progressive n2o controller

Need to know what fuel pump and injector size to run and any recomedations on lt headers for fitment with ac and no egr. need to know if the datalogging and software is better in obd2 because would be cheaper to convert to obd1. Also need to know if the 1.6 rr are a good option or should stay with stock ones and if I would need different valve covers or modifications to stock ones.

This car is pontiac ws-6 1996.

 

was advised the monoblade creates alot of unneeded issues with idle and cyllander pressure that at my hp levels isnt worth the hassle(Dwayne caprice???) I do have the intake already but not the throttle body so Im not locked into this direction yet as can keep or sell the intake or trade but do need a plate kit and tb, so should i use this modified intake with 58mm throttle body and plate, take my chances with the monoblade, get different intake or use my stock one and 58 mm tb and plate. Thanks in advance to all input and please include some of the resons why rather than personal preference or whatever as I have to attempt to make an educated decision based upon my ignorance and a strangers knowledge lol.

 

I run a 58mm and have never had an issue. I can't give you any feedback on a monoblade because i've never run one.

Who is porting your heads and how healthy is you cam going to be?

I have run coated Pacesetter headers and coated Hooker headers, both LT design. The Hookers are much superior in their appearance over time. The coating looks substantially better after a few years.

 

thanks joelster, Ive looked through alot of forums and seen were some people were having to do drillout mods on 54 and 58 and monoblades and seems most has to do with the iac. Saw good feedback on the tpis throttle bodies and that is the maker of the headers I am planning on going with unless I go stainless but they claim the best ground clearance in lt. The cam is a comp 503- 224* 230* with 510* 112lsa. the guy im buying the longblock from either does the heads or has them done I havent asked lol but he is a one guy shop and does alot of motors and has alot of satisfied customers(hopefully ill be one). He is geared towards streetable more than all out power. he has talked me out of the rr for now because he hates the noise and gets reports of alot of false knock. They might give me a couple extra horses but now im kinda like I should just get motor running and see how it is and work out some of my anticipated issues before I add potential problems. Now my concern will be do i run my stock intake manifold(sized for throttle body) or the modded one and try the 58 mm throttle body. Intake manifold mods are
•THE AREA ABOVE THE INTAKE PORT RUNNERS HAS ALUMINUM PLATES PROFESSIONALLY WELDED TO ALLOW RAISING THE INSIDE RUNNERS
•THIS INCREASED PLENUM VOLUME AND POSITIONED THE AIR FLOW MORE DIRECTLY INTO THE CYLINDER HEAD
•THIS METHOD HAS BEEN PROVEN OVER THE YEARS TO ALLOW LARGER CAMSHAFTS AND TOTAL AIRFLOW YET RETAIN FACTORY MANIFOLD ACCESSORY LOCATIONS AND HARDWARE

IT IS ESSENTIALLY A 'HIGH RISE' SINGLE PLANE INTAKE LIKE OLD STYLE MANIFOLDS.

THE OPENING FOR A MONOBLADE THROTTLE BODY IS TOP NOTCH FOR STOCK COFIGURATION ENGINES SEEKING MAXIMUM AIR FLOW WITHOUT MAJOR AND EXPENSIVE INTAKE MANIFOLD CONVERSIONS.

THE INTAKE RUNNERS IMPROVED SHAPE AND RAISED ANGLE ALLOWS BETTER AIR CHARGE INTO THE CYLINDER HEAD, WHILE THE PORT OPENING IS STILL THE LT1 / LT4 SIZE TO MAINTAIN AIR VELOCITY AND USE WITH PORTED STOCK HEADS AS WELL AS AFTERMARKET HEADS UTILIZING AN LT1/LT4 GASKET. AFR 210 HEADS WERE MATCHED TO THIS MANIFOLD.

THE MANIFOLD WAS DISASSEMBLED, GLASS BEADED, WELDED ATOP THE RUNNERS, PORTED INSIDE, SMOOTHED AND MONOBLADE OPENING DONE.
•IT HAS EGR BLOCK OFF PLATES INSTALLED ALONG WITH A REMOVABLE PLUG IN THE FACTORY PCV HOLE.

THESE CAN BE REMOVED AS NEEDED OR LEFT TO RUN IS THEY ARE.

IT WAS DIFFICULT TO CAPTURE THE ACTUAL INCREASE/CHANGE INSIDE RUNNERS WITH PICTURES. SIDE BY SIDE TO A STOCK MANIFOLD THE GASKET OPENING LOOKS SIMILAR, BUT MOVING INSIDE FROM THERE THE PORTING REALLY SHOWS! LOOK CLOSELY AT THE TOPS OF THE RUNNER ROOF AFTER THE INJECTOR HOLES. SEE THE BLENDED, HIGHER THAN STOCK RUNNER DESIGN!

FACTORY CASTING BUMPS AND RIDGES WERE SMOOTHED OR REMOVED FOR ALMOST A TUNNEL RAM STYLE PORT.

I see you have a pretty good time posted. Id like to hit the tens on the n2o but not sure if that will happen without goin past the 200 hp shot Im wanting to limit myself too. What are some of your mods

 

You really should use roller rockers.

The problem with "false knock" due to full roller rockers is easily solved by using the LT4 knock module. It was developed specifically to filter out the noise from the Crane Gold roller rockers used in the 1996 Corvette LT4. Proven to solve the problem.

 

Well I went with the rr. Haha I joined this forum because of your advice to others fred so would kinda be foolish of me not to take advice your giving me. Got a few other questions. Definately will need new injectors and ive ran a couple of formulas and ive seen others with more power or similar power with smaller injectors than the formulas suggest. According to the formulas 36 or 37# is suggested. But others with similar non n2o numbers are running 32# also need suggestions on what fuel pump. Pretty much expect 460 at the crank before n2o 380ish at the wheels and a 200 hp wet shot I'd like to see 10-15 more but im realistic and may be that much less but hope not.

 

I have 30#s and my d/c is high 80's @ 400 rwh (will be going to 42#s ) with a walbro 255 pump. I am going to dyno it today on 175hp wet to see if the a/f is good, if it is then 200hp. I've wired many progressive controllers (and taken them back off) because the 60ft is so important. If the car is set up right you wont need one. I had a 1.49 60ft on 100hp on 17" mt tires. If you get the tune right and the suspension to work , I think you will see the 10's long before you get to 200hp of n2o.

 

My guideline for injector sizing is to multiply flywheel HP X 0.07

In this case, 460 x 0.07 = 32.2 #/HR. I would use a 36 #/HR injector.

The typical injector sizing formula is a "play it way safe" approach using 0.500 #/HR/HP brake specific fuel consumption (BSFC) and a limit of 80% on duty cycle. In my experience, that's way too conservative. My number is based on a BSFC of 0.476 and an 85% DC. You should easily achieve a BSFC of that, or lower with a good tune.

Going to 36's give you a bit of head room. Even a good density altitude day can increase HP and fuel demand appreciably over the SAE or STD corrections used to produce your dyno HP numbers.

 

thanks fred that is the comfirmation i needed as i had planned on getting the 36# but joined this forum to ask a few questions plus when im swappin the motor I am sure ill need some help somewere and if not Ill be here bragging how awesome my car is lol. Thanks again,

 

bubba Ive been realy eyeing the walbro 255 as well. the biggest reason i am planning or considering the n2o controller is because not sure how my stock six speed would like shifts at 550 + rwhp so figured if i can get the spray to either come on soft at the shift or hit after the shift the jar on the drivetrain would be 150+ hp less. Not worried about the rearend with the strange d-60 and Im more concerned with keeping it together than track times. Plus I would probably be driving it to the track and its 80 miles to the 1/8 and over 100 to the 1/4 so with your exerience would the controller help with this objective?

 

Yes it would, I would also consider a rpm window switch with the controller.

 

With a WOT switch (recommended) you would only affect the trans on shifts if you power shifted. I wouldn't recommend that. On a lifting throttle shift, the N2O wouldn't be a factor.

 

Putting a clutch switch inline with the WOT switch will also allow for hard launch (side stepping,speed shifting) with out fear of n2o activation before clutch release. I recomended a rpm window switch because in my experience with a plate system (150-200hp) ,as you said you were going to use, that much n2o (wet system) in a dry intake does'nt like the t/blades to be shut first. Maybe thats to much saftey, but , I try to keep the customer and investment safe. Big Bubba's Racing --Wired 4 Speed

 

A correctly wired WOT switch (I prefer electronic, off the TPS sensor) should interupt the solenoid circuits the instant the throttle blades start to close.

 

Good point Fred, I wired a Zex n2o system on a 2005 GTO m6 that used an electronic t/switch like Injuneer spoke about ,although it was'nt a plate system, it used a controller to inject through a fogger nozzle. Might want research one for your app. It worked great!!!