Another route to go would be to go to your local race shop/engine builder, they probably have all sorts of used rods/piston sets that were pulled from perfectly good engines to freshen them. They can give you good deals on that stuff. I had many engines built that way. Can't beat it if your on a budget.

 

If your stock rods are in good shape, just reuse them. But be careful to get a crank that will allow you to use a 5.7" rod, some stroker cranks have counterweights that will interfere with the piston skirt if a short rod is used.

Rich

 

Alright, talked with the guy that is doing my machine work..I guess I'm gonna go with an Eagle crank w/ internal balance..he said that we will balance my rotating assembly and the balancer and flywheel will need to be neutral balance. Now, he said my we won't need to check my deck height..is this correct? As far as used parts, I'm not a big fan of used parts for an engine with this much hp. That's just more risk for failure in my opinion..

 

Would anyone happen to know if that info is correct about balancing, etc?

 

I used an Eagle int.bal. crank in my 383 and they removed the counter weight off my flex plate for a neutral balance. I used 6 in. scat i beam
rods and probe 2618 forged pistons. The combo works great for me.

 

Ok, what about fuel injectors? Would it hurt to use 42 lb instead of 37 lb like I was told? Will this cause a rich issue? No one would happen to know if the le2.2 cam is a small base circle cam would they?

 

You can use the 42 pounders without a concern. The tuner will compensate in the tune so no abnormal rich condition will result. The computer controls both when the injector opens and how long it opens so you'd just not keep a 42 open as long as a smaller injector.

Sorry, I don't know about the cam...

 

sweet...that means i just got a heck of a deal on injectors...what about oil pump, is a HV oil pump neccessary? it seems to me it might just cause more problem with stock oil pan..i can use the stock oil pan correct?

 

I don't recommend a high volume pump although guys use them anyway. I'd go with a stock volume replacement with a high pressure 'white' spring. Hydraulic pressure is what floats the shafts so this is just added insurance. Be sure to weld the pickup into the pump, you sure don't want it coming out after you've built this thing. If you don't want to weld it, somebody sells this holder that bolts to the pump and grips the pickup tube. Do what you like but welding certainly works...

You can use the stock pan but might have to clearance it to fit, especially at the front of the engine...the rod caps can hit. By clearancing I mean hit the pan with a hammer until there is clearance...lol

Good luck!

 

yea, ive welded the pickup tube on before..thats the only way known to clearance a stock item where i live..BFH and some muscle does the trick..ok well that will pretty much sum everything up here is a list of my build and you can tell me if it looks suitable:

383 bottom end consisting of:
Probe Ind. 12336-030 Forged Pistons
Eagle SIR 5.7in Forged Rods
Eagle 3.750 Crankshaft(Internal Balance)
Main Cap Studs
Head Studs
LE2.2 Head/Cam package
Mr. Gasket 5716 h-gaskets(.029 thickness)
LE Ported intake
LS7 Lifters
1.6 Comp Pro Mag Rockers(NSA)
Guideplates and Hardened Pushrods(unsure of length yet, needs measured)
58mm TB
42 Lb Racetronix Injectors
Electric Water Pump

maybe you can give me your opinion...ive been hearing that a brand new stock timing chain(non-roller) with new sprockets will be ok with this build, would you say there will be any harm to snapping it?