Hey everyone, long story short is I'm discussing a trade with this guy and I want to know what you think about this setup, how reliable you think it is, and how good the set up goes together. I'm basically asking what you think of the mods on the motor. Any advice would be greatly appreciated, thanks everyone.

This is the car. - http://www.cardomain.com/ride/246209...ro?action=demo

All the mod are listed on the page.

 

And if whether or not you think it would be a solid car.

 

the "Eagle" rods & crank, since not stated as forged...would be a concern. JET MAF is crap. Those choices lead me to believe this is not the "built" 383 I would do.

It is hard to see wtf the car really is with internet pics. If you can see the car, get it up on a lift to see undercarage (leaks) and any evidance of collision. Have a qualified 3rd part mechanic inspect the vehicle. Someone who built this most likely has dyno data....although that can't be confirmed it was from this car

 

Yeah, I'm on the fence, the trade is for a car that isn't worth that, but I have no idea how solid its built, I don't wanna get a car I have to constantly fork over money to repair. He claims its making around 500hp, what do you think?

 

if he is willing to trade for a car that is not worth as much....what do you think?

The car is heavily modified and no doubt has seen some....lets say "use". Buying modified cars that you don't know detailed history of or have a qualified 3rd party completely inspect, including a leak down test for compression, is taking a risk.

I am way on the otherside of the internet on this, you need to make the decision. With that said "I" would not buy or trade for this car. Just from the description of parts involved

"you" could get lucky but if you don't have the ability to do repairs and determine the mechanical operation of the vehicle you could be getting into a exspensive habbit if you need "work" done on this car.

500hp....maybe on spray

 

I mean that the paint isn't perfect, and there's different little things that make it a pretty good trade for both sides, but I'm just looking for advice, like you gave me, I've got a great mechanic that specializes in Chevy, he could look over it. But I'm leaning away from it too, the motor has around 70k and the body has around 100. He's trading because he needs a 4 door car for his family and he does really drive it.

 

{eagle 1000 hp rated*crank}

This would not be a cast crank!!

 

So would that make a world of difference? I know its not cast, but he's had these mods a few years, even some not on the site, he's put miles on the car and its still going, and if I got the car I'm not going to be hard on it. Which I know means nothing until I have it. I guess I should ask him if their forged.

 

His math iisn't too good either.... going 0.040" over (not .40 as he typed) gives you 384.6 cubic inches = 6.30 liters. Nit-picking, but the more you bore it, the less strength in the cylinder walls, and the less meat for the next rebuild. I held mine to 0.020 over, based on sonic testing of the cylinder walls, and knowing the kind of cylinder pressures you see with nitrous.

His plate system is not my favorite. Very hard to get good distribution of wet system fuel in a manifold designed for air only. I suspect (and my engine builder confirmed) that the plate isn't a good choice.

Some other negatives:

I thought the early Trick Flow heads had 62cc chambers. Not sure how he got to 11.5:1 CR.

Fluidampr can be a crap shoot.... company went bankrupt, and a lot of people were complaining about broken crank snouts.

JET MAF

Mid-tube headers that look more like shorties - hard to tell from pic's.

Holley adjustable FPR (why?)

Appears the 9-inch is not installed - does it come with the car?

"drag" oriented vehicle, but lowering it 1.75" and running 18" wheels is not consitant with that. Dont' see LCA relos' on the list.

On the other hand, looks clean, well cared for. But a lot of unknowns as pointed out above.