Need a direction to go with a sitting Camaro
Need a direction to go with a sitting Camaro
I got a 97 Z28, A4, T Tops, 15XXXX miles, two wrecked fenders (one from me, one from father in law).
I know gotta fix em first, so thats step one.
I wanna just get a new crate motor or rebuild, since the motors high mileage, is idling wierd, cuts off sometimes and feels like power loss and mpg loss, still reliable transportaion suprisingly, but sitting since new baby means new family car, and couldn't afford insurance at the time for three vehicles.
Not sure what it is maybe just MAF sensor, or opti?
Anyway, looking for street/strip setup it'll take forever, i dont have much of budget, it's basically when i get money is when i get part, but i want around a 500hp street monster and ill get it even if it takes years.
Just need a setup.
So i'll be going rear to front with this, so if yall could help me out, i'll be very appreciative.
12 Bolt or 9" and what kind?
What gears, 4.11 or lower/higher?
What should I do with my 4l60e?
what Longtubes?
I know subframe connectors, but what else should I get for durability?
What else?
And whats the best bang for buck Crate, Rebuild, or other?
I know gotta fix em first, so thats step one.
I wanna just get a new crate motor or rebuild, since the motors high mileage, is idling wierd, cuts off sometimes and feels like power loss and mpg loss, still reliable transportaion suprisingly, but sitting since new baby means new family car, and couldn't afford insurance at the time for three vehicles.
Not sure what it is maybe just MAF sensor, or opti?
Anyway, looking for street/strip setup it'll take forever, i dont have much of budget, it's basically when i get money is when i get part, but i want around a 500hp street monster and ill get it even if it takes years.
Just need a setup.
So i'll be going rear to front with this, so if yall could help me out, i'll be very appreciative.
12 Bolt or 9" and what kind?
What gears, 4.11 or lower/higher?
What should I do with my 4l60e?
what Longtubes?
I know subframe connectors, but what else should I get for durability?
What else?
And whats the best bang for buck Crate, Rebuild, or other?
sorry, forgot to say what i got on the camaro.
So, far I got 98-02 SS spoiler, 93-97 SShood, Ram Air intake, BBK 52mm TB, Flowmaster American Thunder Exhaust (I know Bad), Eibach Sportline Springs, and KYB 8way adj struts and shocks.
So, far I got 98-02 SS spoiler, 93-97 SShood, Ram Air intake, BBK 52mm TB, Flowmaster American Thunder Exhaust (I know Bad), Eibach Sportline Springs, and KYB 8way adj struts and shocks.
well, i don't have to go all the way up to 500hp, just want a fast camaro with a deep cam sound, it'll be more like a weekend driver, with trips to the strip.
I want it done the right way, no sweet cam with no power, i want the bark with the bite, if that helps.
I've been looking up stuff and it seems the 9 inch is the way to go.
Does that change anything in the rear as in what wheels to choose, cuz i was looking in the 17x11 torque thrusts 2's but if that changes what wheels i can get i would like to know.
Thanks!
I want it done the right way, no sweet cam with no power, i want the bark with the bite, if that helps.
I've been looking up stuff and it seems the 9 inch is the way to go.
Does that change anything in the rear as in what wheels to choose, cuz i was looking in the 17x11 torque thrusts 2's but if that changes what wheels i can get i would like to know.
Thanks!
Are you looking for 500HP at the rear wheels, or at the flywheel?
Generally, you can go to 450HP with the stock 10-bolt, with an automatic trans and street tires. Typically, you want 3.73 gears with the A4. Next step up would be a 12-bolt. Good for up to 750HP with the automatic, but you are looking at at least $2,500. Alternative would be the Strange (Dana) S60, also available as a direct bolt-in - stronger than the 12-bolt, less HP loss, but 25# more weight. I'd stay away from a 9-inch unless you are looking for huge HP/torque. The 9-inch eats up more HP, weighs a lot, has limited options for limited slip, offsets the driveshaft to one side (not centered) and drops the pinon about 3/4", making pinion angle critical.
Rear wheel selection is not affected by the choice of rear axle. With the correct offset (45-50mm) you can bolt 17x11's to any of those axles. I run 17x11's with 315/35 BFG Drag Radials, with my Strange 12-bolt on the street.
In general, a lowered car (Sportlines) running on 17" wheels is not going to produce a good combo for the strip.
In addition to the sub-frame connectors, you will want tubular rear lower control arms, LCA relocation brackets, and a tubular adjustable panhard rod. The brackets and adjustable panhard rod are mandatory on a lowered car. You will also need to look into a tubular, adjustable torque arm - chassis mount recommended.
The 4L60E is going to need a rebuild, check out our Supporting vendor - Performabuilt. You will want a high stall converter as well.
Personally, I'd focus on the HP and maintaining torque over a wide RPM range, since its a street driven car- not the "deep cam sound". Huge duration and narrow lobe separation angle will make it sound really evil.... but its going to be a dog at low RPM. Long tubes help you out in that respect, strengthening the torque at lower RPM. Many people like the Pacesetters because of price. If price is no object, Kooks are about at good as it gets.
Generally, you can go to 450HP with the stock 10-bolt, with an automatic trans and street tires. Typically, you want 3.73 gears with the A4. Next step up would be a 12-bolt. Good for up to 750HP with the automatic, but you are looking at at least $2,500. Alternative would be the Strange (Dana) S60, also available as a direct bolt-in - stronger than the 12-bolt, less HP loss, but 25# more weight. I'd stay away from a 9-inch unless you are looking for huge HP/torque. The 9-inch eats up more HP, weighs a lot, has limited options for limited slip, offsets the driveshaft to one side (not centered) and drops the pinon about 3/4", making pinion angle critical.
Rear wheel selection is not affected by the choice of rear axle. With the correct offset (45-50mm) you can bolt 17x11's to any of those axles. I run 17x11's with 315/35 BFG Drag Radials, with my Strange 12-bolt on the street.
In general, a lowered car (Sportlines) running on 17" wheels is not going to produce a good combo for the strip.
In addition to the sub-frame connectors, you will want tubular rear lower control arms, LCA relocation brackets, and a tubular adjustable panhard rod. The brackets and adjustable panhard rod are mandatory on a lowered car. You will also need to look into a tubular, adjustable torque arm - chassis mount recommended.
The 4L60E is going to need a rebuild, check out our Supporting vendor - Performabuilt. You will want a high stall converter as well.
Personally, I'd focus on the HP and maintaining torque over a wide RPM range, since its a street driven car- not the "deep cam sound". Huge duration and narrow lobe separation angle will make it sound really evil.... but its going to be a dog at low RPM. Long tubes help you out in that respect, strengthening the torque at lower RPM. Many people like the Pacesetters because of price. If price is no object, Kooks are about at good as it gets.
Thanks, thats helps a lot! I was thinking around 10-11 sec range car, around 400hp, any suggestions on what setup engine wise would be good? Also, what prices am i looking at fo it?
a 400 hp car isnt going to go tens unless its an all out light weight racecar. With the amount of miles you have on the motor i would rebuild the motor. Do a nice heads and cam 383, 150 shot and you should go high 10's low 11's. Not too many people buy crate engines around here.
I would look up Advanced Induction, Llyod Elliot, both port stock LT castings very well, both proven time and time again.
Than either build it yourself or have a local shop do it.
As for the headers, pacesetters, Kooks, Jethot, etc. Subframes i would go UMI 3 pt's, weld in.
What is your budget?
I would look up Advanced Induction, Llyod Elliot, both port stock LT castings very well, both proven time and time again.
Than either build it yourself or have a local shop do it.
As for the headers, pacesetters, Kooks, Jethot, etc. Subframes i would go UMI 3 pt's, weld in.
What is your budget?
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