Dont sound good at all..Id pull the intake next and see if you see any lifters collapsed..Does sound like bearings tho
Sure doesnt look like there is much oil up top either..

Cody

 

That sounds like lifter/rocker noise, but what the hell do I know?
Good luck with it.

 

Take the engine out threw the top unless you have a lift.

Machine work would be around $400 ( clean, hone cylinders 20 over , cam bearings installed, deck block, polish crank). If the mains need to be line honed thats another $100. You could get a cheap set of pistons for $60 and rings for $60. Bearings , gaskets would be another $150.....so $700- $1000.

You probably think you dont need pistons....but I would do them while you got it out because the rings alone for the lt1 stock pistons will cost you $150+. You can reuse the rods if they are ok. Dont run the engine anymore.

 

Well I've had a handful of people tell me not to drive anymore, so I guess I'll just park it now. How in the hell does that engine come out the top?!?!?

Do I have to get everything taken off first? I guess I'll need an engine hoist and an engine stand. I need them eventually, but I have no money at this time!

I'm not looking for any fancy build up or anything. I just want a reliable daily driver while I work on the other 2 cars (that arent' here yet). I have nothing else to drive att either. Hopefully my friend lets me use his truck!!!

 

I have had my motor out the top of my car five times now and never removed the hood. Many do it the other way but that is there choice. i go out the top so the car can still be moved with the steering and brakes intact.

I start by removing the trans and convertor along with the flex plate. that part takes about 30-45 minutes. Then I remove every thing off the front of the motor along with the radiator and the A/C condenser(optional). next I remove all the exhaust fron the heads to the cat-back. at this point I lift up the motor after removing Mount bolts. Bring it up and slowly work forward clearing steering rack and K-member. once you get with in a few inches of the Rad support spin the motor 90* and lift the rest of the way working forward to clear hood and radiator support.


Last time we did this we puled motor and trans to rear end. Put new rod and main bearings, a new cam and lifters with new oil pump drive, rebuilt rockers(worn trunions) then put it all back in and ready to run in just under 14 hours. one solid day of work


Good luck on your project man

 

One other option is to find another motor.....you could probably find one for around $700 or so.

 

kinda hurts to hear that a mustanger uses or precious f-body as a daily drivers versus the other way around

 

LOL yeah no kidding huh? Well it was my friends dads, it was just sitting there for over a year doing nothing. Needed brakes/tires (starter & fuel pump & clutch soon there-after), but I grabbed it for $5175, I couldn't pass it up. At least it's paid for.

I love the color, the 6-speed, the T-tops, and the chick-pickup factor.

To be honest, this car is a lot funner to drive than my 88LX, but don't tell anyone I said that LOL.

However, I would never use one of these for more than just a driver, they're too much of a PITA for me to work on. Takes a special person, and I'm not that type. I'll stick to racing mustangs

 

You have bearing problems as evidence by the loss of known oil pressure and the noise its making now.

 

A rod bearing is possible. I have something similar to that happen to me last April. Took the valve covers off, and found a busted roller roker, upon further examination, found a bent valve stem, which it later proved to be broken when I pulled the heads off. My advise...don't start your car up anymore, and remove the valve covers like everybody is telling you to do.

 

by the way to add pertinent information to the post. My V6 made the exact same sound and only to a certain rpm like yours does, it did turn out to be a busted rocker which was easily replaced. So that may just be the problem like zhevy-1 said. But my valve stems were fine. Sorry I didn't post that beofre but my roommate was sleeping and I didn't listen to the sound bite

 

I just took all the pushrods out.

Here's my observation:

1. They all seem straight.
2. The noise sounded like the passengers side, with my mech. stethescope. None of the pushrods on the passenger side had oil in them, while the ones on the drivers side did.

 

The side that is "block" is the side that goes down to the lifters.







I'm guessing next step is to yank the intake, and double check the rockers.

 

I couldn't even see anything wrong when I busted my rocker I just ended up replacing all the rockers on the side that I though it was on, fixed it right up. You should replace those pushrods while you're in there, I did. Did you roll them on glass to see if they're perfect?

 

Well, after no blood, a little sweat, and no tears, I've got the intake ripped off. I had to get a fuel line disconnect tool from Oreilly's, it's 3/8" in case anyone needs to know

I guess next step here is to check out the lifters, see if anything is obviously wrong iwth them. I think that little thing there needs to come out first though. Not sure what I'm looking for with the lifters though.