thenewkid

I've done roller rockers a few times, I just can't understand how he figured 7.200 length PR for my application. I would have much rather been told to measure first instead of being handed a slick set of pushrods that might now work. You dig?

Chimera96

7.200 will "work" in terms of engine running....they just "may" be a little long.

You just need to measure. do the mark the valve stem first and try the 7.200 to see if they are right size

A good builder would measure for a motor with decked block & heads with a aftermarket cam. Not just arbitrarily say stock length is good

thenewkid

Ok so my next question, Right now I'm still planning on reusing my hypertech adjustable fpr set at 43.5 and 24# injectors. Will I need to change this? Trying to gather all my info for my mail tune

bw_hunter

Probably not. Fuel injector sizing is based on expected flywheelhorsepower you'll end up with. The simple formula is HP * 0.07 = injector size in pounds/hour. It is OK to oversize a little to leave room for future upgrades. So, if you're looking for 500 flywheel horsepower, get 35 pound injectors. Keep in mind that the flow ratings are at a specific fuel pressure. Ford Injectors run at a lower pressure and will have a higher flow at the 43.5 psi that GM used for the LT1...

Chimera96

Your AFPR will be fine. The 24 lb injectors may be on the lite site. Discuss with your tuner. Ford SVO 30# (red tops) are a common injector upgrade many tuners are familiar with

Heads, cam, tune mods often are accompanied with other mods to the fuel system. Larger injectors and higher flow fuel pump

"if" you find the fuel pressure starts to fade at SUSTAINED WOT use you would need to look into a 255 LPH fuel pump

The 43.5 PSI fuel pressure should be with no vac line connected to FPR. It will drop down to around 37-28 with the vac line connected to it

thenewkid

This is the real problem because for whatever reason its a lot cheaper to have a few different companies do various jobs independently of each other than it is for one company to the entire job. At least, that's the case here in the KCK-Topeka area. The one who suggested the top end never saw the short block, and thus couldn't measure anything.. I'm saving a few bucks here and there and learning some new things at the same time, and that's exactly what I wanted to do from the beginning. I'm no expert or an engineer. I've just learned a lot through hands on experience/ mistakes and its gotten me here.

But back on the build, if my MY measurements are even close to right, I need something around a 7.000 to 7.0125 PR But I'm waiting to get the CC length checker to verify that. Anyone else use that short PR? LS7 lifters, 1.6 cc ultrapro mags on 7/16 studs.

Chimera96

You using a basic PR check tool will be fine. Shorter PR is common. I now have 7.100 and some wind up 7.150. It varies.

First use a stock 7.200 PR and see where the pattern lands. if towards the exhaust side of motor than go shorter with the adjustable PR checker. Set it at 7.150, repeat. If still closer to exhaust set at 7.100. If you need to split the difference I have been told the witness mark left on the valve tip should be "slightly" towards exhaust vs intake if you can't get it dead nuts center with the narrowest sweep mark

Also watch the RR as you rotate the motor once you do establish PR length and confirm there is no contact from RR body to spring retainer. I assume you are using NSA RR and guide plates

7.000 sounds a little short compared to what most people with a LT1 decked block & head build wind up with so just measure to be sure

if for example the PR check tool comes out 7.139...I would just go 7.150 as typically "off the shelf" PR come in .050 increment's.

Get the .080 thick wall PR.

thenewkid

Ok well its been awhile since I've posted.. well sort of, my log in info got all scrambled late one night and I accidently made a similar account (thenewkidz28-feel free to delete) because I thought this one was gone but then realized I mixed up a profile name I use on another site haha... Anyway a lot has changed.

I now have a forged 383 with:
block bored .0305, honed, line honed
zero deck
internal balance
cloyes timing chain set
CC hydraulic roller
282 adv. intake dur.
292 adv. exhaust dur.
110 lobe sep.
106 intake centerline
gross valve lift: 0.579 int./ 0.576 exh.
LS7 lifters
1.6 promags on 7/16 CC studs
7.050 trickflow pushrods + trickflow guide plates
mahle 26 inverted dome pistons (was advertised as 16cc)
ealge forged crank 3.75" stroke
eagle forged H beam rods 6"
ARP Main studs
howards main caps
ATI dampener
LT1 52 cc heads with a bit of port work done here in KCK
manley double valve springs
pacesetters
30lb accel injectors
hypertech adjustable FPR
stock LT1 intake
52mm TB

Anyways I need help from the gurus again, The motor is back in the car and I go to put my TCI flexplate on and the bolts don't line up. SO I called summit and they said eagle makes it as well but its not SFI approved She also said they sell a lot of them with good success, so I just ordered it on the spot because I need to hear this thing soon haha. But I wanted to hear more about it from you guys even if you don't like eagle products, I know they aren't top shelf but I feel like I got the short block for a good deal. Is There a different SFI flexplate out there that will work?

Also I wanted to know if these (ARP 200-2906) bolts will work for this eagle crank now? I can thread them in 3 or 4 threads but then starts to get tight.

Finally I would like to know what sort of fit up I need between the converter and the flexplate. when I installed my stall last time it was to the factory flexplate so it was a little easier.

Injuneer

There is a difference in the crank bolt circle diameter depending on whether it is a 1-piece rear main seal (3.00” bolt circle), or a 2-piece rear main seal (3.58” bolt circle). Is that the kind of bolt hole mis-alignment you are seeing?

thenewkid

Exactly