For all that were helping me with getting my car to 390rwhp, I have the dynosheet.

Here it is

Notice that at around 5600 it takes a dip, and then gets pretty choppy from that point on. This must be where the guy running the dyno, noticed the "breaking up", as he called it.

IMO if the car would have kept pulling (and it should with a cc306) at the same consistant rate that it pulled to 5600...it should have hit around 380-385 at 6400. What do you think?

Hopefully soon, I will get off my butt and get these valves adjusted like they should be. Then I'm headed back for a re-dyno...this time I'm going to tell them to turn it up to 7k. I know it probably won't pull that far, but I'd be interested to see.

 

So quit fooling around, get the valves adjusted and go pull 390 rwhp. Jeez...hehe

Oh, and call me before you re-dyno so I can come and check it out!

 

Yeah, re-adjust and go, also take a look at those plugs, make sure the gap isn't to far off. Great #'s for the mods you have....


Jose

 

That graph does look a little bit rough. Did you scan your car while doing the dyno? What about a wideband?
If you were shooting for 390 I would say you are there. 5-10hp could be dyno error.

 

What are your mods to hit 390rwhp?

And congrats, thats alot of HP!

 

Didn't scan it, but did use a wideband. Check the bottom of the graph, and you can see my A/F.

306 cam, ported heads by JZ 97 SS 1500 (stock untouched valves), hooker longtubes, cutout, electric waterpump, gmpp cold air, 1.6 rockers/crane valvesprings, 36# injectors.

I think I'm adjusting the valves tomorrow. I am also getting a 58mm TB next week. It will probably be a few weeks before I can afford to dyno again.

 

Nice numbers, I'll bet those valves will help out a bit.

 

Well with a ported MAF, something other then that stock TB your still using and adjust those valves....I don't see a problem getting over 390 easily. Heck the way the curve was going, I think you would have already hit very close to 380-385. Heck on my dyno with the CC306, the peak wasn't till 6500. I think that 58MM TB will help some, and a ported MAF will also help a little. but I think the most gain will come from the valves. Thats clacking can't be doing your dyno any good, or your knock sensor...hehe

Jose

 

Got the valves adjusted today, but found something I'm a little worried about. Recently I put some polished aluminum valve covers on, to fix the leaking stock covers. They were supposed to fit with 1.6 rockers.

Today after I put everything back together and cranked it up...I could still hear rocker noise on the drivers side. So I pulled the cover back off, and cranked it up to listen. The noise was gone. So I picked up the cover and looked at the underside. Turns out that the rockers were not only loose, but also rubbing on the VC supports. They had made some little circles where they were rubbing on the support. Some of the marks had a little bit of metal shaving around them. I sure hope my bearings are ok!

I broke out the die grinder, and cut away some metal on the VC's. Now they fit perfect, no rubbing. I went ahead and changed the oil/filter too. I'm still worried about those shavings though.

So now I'm assuming that i was not only losing hp from the rockers being loose. But I'm willing to bet the knocksensor was picking up the rockers grinding on the covers.

 

don't worry about the rockers, change your oil & be done with it I disabled my KS all together, too much false knock, not at WOT just idle & stuff.