First of all you have 4 fault codes and 3 of the 4 circuits involved with those faults are all on the same fuse. Under hood 10Amp fuse number 11. Chances are good there is a bad connection at or near that fuse. Check it.

The other DTC number 100 for the MAF just so happens to be on the very next fuse. U/H 20amp fuse number 10.

Both fuses supply power through connectors. Connector C100 for the 3 faults and connector C105 for the MAF fault. Both are pink wires. Check the connections also. C100 is the 10 pin connector and C105 is the 8 pin connector located right near the PCM.

Even if those circuits prove good and the car runs good, monitor the voltage on those circuits to see if the voltage is dropping out intermittently.

 

I did reprair a hard almost melted looking "pink" wire near the pcm. I will check the wires going into the fuse box. Also, i forgot to mention that yesterday the Ingition fuse blew in the relay box. Maybe we're on to something here?

 

When you leave out important info, you aren't helping yourself. You can't chase electrical problems by guessing.

 

well, didn't find any bad wires. I'm now hitching a ride to Milan Dragway today since i can't drive my car....lol I'll be "guessing" some more tomorrow with buying a new ignition control module, coil and fuel pressure regulator since i found it to be faulty.

 

I'm Late for the No Et race @ Milan dragway cuz i thought i could fix the camaro.....fat chance. Put a new coil and ignition module and its still doing the same thing. I guess i'm gonna pull the new opti off and check it??? Anyone?? Shoebox what do ya think?

 

It could be the opti with all of what your explaining happening, sounds just like my friends. If you get an opti from ebay I would only advise the one's from thepartsladi. I'm not very good with the electical stuff so that's about all I can tell you.

 

Well i decieded to drive the camaro anyways......bad choice. Never made it to the Drag strip and spent most of my night on the side of the expressway.
Car was running great....stopped at a rest area to ****, came back out started it up.....started getting on it a little to merge back on the expressway....then it completely shut off. I had to let it sit for an hour and a half before it would run. I drove it super mellow almost all the way back home...then i stopped a couple driveways down and punched it hard.....it completely fell on its face and died....right now its sitting out in the driveway dead. gonna put a fuel pressure gage on it while its dead and see what i come up with.

 

And now this brain storm:
Everything you have said or presented to us points to an electrical problem but you want to check fuel pressure AGAIN for the second time.

Reminds me of a guy looking for something he dropped under a lone street light. When asked where he dropped it he replied " way over there". "So why are you looking here"? To which he replied, "cause the light is better over here".

Good luck in the future.

 

And to add to the fuel pressure question.... NO, the fuel pressure should not always be "constant pressure around 45-47psi". It should vary with intake manifold vacuum. That's why it has the vacuum compensation line attached to the fuel pressure regulator - to vary the fuel rail presssure, so the the DIFFERENTIAL pressure between the rails and the intake manifold is always 43.5psi. A 37psi idle fuel pressure is totally normal.

You've blown off Speedy's suggestions, mocked Shoebox for his comments about "guessing".... how do you expect to get help with that attitude? You've probably pissed off two of the most knowledgeable and helpful people here.

Good luck.... you're going to need it.

 

One thing you might want to check. The opti has vent lines on it. Engine vacuum is used to pull ignition gases out of the opti and replace it with fresh air. If the opti lines are clogged up or not installed at all, the opti will fail rapidly due to contaimination build-up. The high voltage section will cross-fire and the optical portion (low voltage section) will overheat.

It's been my experience that when the tach drops to zero but the engine is still running, the
opti is failing.

 

Yes, my Opti had the vents BLOCKED off when I got it and the Opti got moisture in it and quit. Get a new OPTI and and things will be fine.

 

Whatever man. I didn't do anything wrong but spend my OWN money on these "guesses". I ended up finding out what the problem was on my own. THE FUEL PUMP.
CAR IS GONE NOW>>>TRADED IT FOR A REAL CAR........A Mustang. TAKE CARE CHEVY LOVERS.......i'm out.

 

Sounds like a bad Opti; I don't suggest buying one off ebay. I'd get one from a GM dealer (there are guys on here who work at dealers who will supply them fairly cheap).

Also, what wires did you use? A lot of times due to the tight spacing the wires end up getting burnt and then start arcing to the exhaust manifolds.

As for the fuel pressure, you will see some drop off as the RPMs go up, but how low is it dropping? if it's only a couple PSI then that's normal, if it's dropping to under 30, then you could have an issue.

I'd say 90% of your issues are coming from the Opti. The cheap ones typically don't last that long, and if you're not careful and get them wet when you're purging the air out of the cooling system you can kill them pretty quickly.

 

you must go through allot of vehicles buying a new one each time somin simple like a fuel pump dies. have fun w/ those fords, can't believe it took you a few months to figure out you had a bad fuel pump

 

Appears to have been a troll, wasting our time.

Closed