LT1 Based Engine Tech 1993-1997 LT1/LT4 Engine Related

My Big Mistake

Old Jun 6, 2008 | 08:17 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by MTBSully
When im putting the heads back on, how do i make sure i am getting a good torque reading? Thanks guys
Chase the threads with a chaser(not a tap), use new head bolts(they may come with sealant on them...if not you will need sealant), and use a tad bit of oil under the top of the head bolt.

ENRKyle20 has nailed the torque sequence.
Old Jun 6, 2008 | 10:14 PM
  #17  
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Make sure your new head bolts have washers! Do not install without.
Old Jun 7, 2008 | 08:14 AM
  #18  
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got some new felpro head bolts with sealant and washers yesterday. Hopefully i will have time to clean up the block and heads with some brake cleaner and a razor blade today.

What is the best way to adjust the valves and rockers when it comes time to put stuff back together? Since i have one head off i was hoping that might make it a bit easier, maybe marking the crank hub or something when each piston on the passenger side was at the top of its stroke.
Old Jun 7, 2008 | 10:59 AM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by ACE1252
Ditto, any type of hand worked abrasive it will make the surface wavy.
sand paper has a tendency to loose sand and sand in an open motor is bad news.
Old Jun 7, 2008 | 01:44 PM
  #20  
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where do the washers come in when i did mine 1995 there were no washers involved.
Old Jun 7, 2008 | 01:59 PM
  #21  
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Just wanted to give you a pat on the back for admitting and sharing your mistake, maybe it will help someone else down the road.

The ability to admit and learn from is rare these days and you will find it takes you farther for less money as the years go by.

Far as the washers, probably means for the "steam pipe" connections at the back of the head.
Old Jun 7, 2008 | 03:08 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by popstoy
where do the washers come in when i did mine 1995 there were no washers involved.
Factory bolts are shoulder bolts with built in washers... aftermarket bolts like ARP's tend to have a separate washer.
Old Jun 7, 2008 | 03:13 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by Javier97Z28
Factory bolts are shoulder bolts with built in washers... aftermarket bolts like ARP's tend to have a separate washer.
That's what I mean.

It could have been another mistake waiting to happen.
Old Jun 7, 2008 | 03:21 PM
  #24  
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so in my case what would be the best way to reinstall my rockers? Also what is preload? Ive never adjusted my valves before
Old Jun 7, 2008 | 03:26 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by MTBSully
so in my case what would be the best way to reinstall my rockers? Also what is preload? Ive never adjusted my valves before
You can find all that info on my Tech Page. As many of your threads I have replied to, I am surprised you have not visited my website.

http://shbox.com/1/4th_gen_tech2.html#adjust_valves
Old Jun 7, 2008 | 04:00 PM
  #26  
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Thanks for that site man. I have used so much info off it already.
Old Jun 7, 2008 | 11:17 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by shoebox
You can find all that info on my Tech Page. As many of your threads I have replied to, I am surprised you have not visited my website.

http://shbox.com/1/4th_gen_tech2.html#adjust_valves
your website has been under my favorites since before I even joined this forum. I just know that there are multiple ways to adjust the valves and i'm wondering what is most likely going to be best in my situation.

Maybe a dumb question, but since i haven't turned the crank at all (pistons and cam havent moved), can't i just reinstall my rockers on the passenger side and set them to zero lash, or do i have to adjust them a different way.
Old Jun 8, 2008 | 02:50 AM
  #28  
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zero plus a 1/4 to 1/2 turn should be alright- but I would do them all on both sides. Shoe's got a couple different methods, study them.

Last edited by LT1 FUN; Jun 8, 2008 at 02:53 AM.
Old Jun 8, 2008 | 07:18 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by MTBSully
your website has been under my favorites since before I even joined this forum. I just know that there are multiple ways to adjust the valves and i'm wondering what is most likely going to be best in my situation.

Maybe a dumb question, but since i haven't turned the crank at all (pistons and cam havent moved), can't i just reinstall my rockers on the passenger side and set them to zero lash, or do i have to adjust them a different way.
You will have to zero lash them when the valves are closed. The lifters need to be on the base of the cam, not the lobe. Various valves will be opened at different phases, even though you haven't moved them . Before you began, did you bring #1 to TDC?
Old Jun 8, 2008 | 08:37 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by MTBSully
your website has been under my favorites since before I even joined this forum. I just know that there are multiple ways to adjust the valves and i'm wondering what is most likely going to be best in my situation.

Maybe a dumb question, but since i haven't turned the crank at all (pistons and cam havent moved), can't i just reinstall my rockers on the passenger side and set them to zero lash, or do i have to adjust them a different way.
You have to adjust them the way the procedure you choose states. You will need an intial adjustment, so method 1 or 3 may be the easiest place to start.

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