Check that dowel pin length. Take that opti off and check it now before you have to eat another one.

There is a thread on here somewhere that I was in about the opti. I had a comp cam, and the dowel pin was about .020 too long, and took out 2 optis before I figured it out. I just used a dremel tool and ground down on the pin to the proper length. Of course, cover the open opti hole in the timing chain cover.

When you put your opti on, it should push all the way up to the block BEFORE you add any bolts. Don't use the bolts to pull the opti flush onto the block, or it's a goner.

I hope this helps you.

D Moss

From other post:
dmoss69---I took my old opti off and then measured my cam dowel pin. It measured .068" . I took some plumbers putty and stuck in the new opti. I had to grind my cam dowel pin down to .035" until I felt that there was enough clearance between the tip of the dowel pin and opti.

 

I put another opti up there last week. So far the car is running good. If this decides to go, i'll be sure to check the length.

 

You have a 94 - Did you do a "Vented" Opti conversion? What does the front of the cam look like - how big is the center hole? - how long is the dowel?

If you still have the unvented Opti, the dowel doesn't drive it, the splined shaft engages the cam sprocket.

 

I have an aftermarket Comp cam. The dowel length is OK. Full engagement. Upon further review, the problem is the GM rotor that distributes the spark. When running a high energy system, the opti rotor piece will heat up. Looks like it melts the plastic nubs that hold it on. Once it loosens, it will fatigue fail especially under maximum angular acceleration. The piece comes loose and is free to pummel everything in the cap area. Therefore, I will design and build my own. The remaining parts of the OPti look OK. The rotor sucks. I called MSD for some pointers. I was considering Delteq, but I like the MSD high energy system on my blown application. I am moving toward NO gm parts in my car. This will be about the last.