SO, if a guy was to buy an MSD Opti (I have a laptop with cables to read Knock Retard), is there anything I should do during the install (or before) to be able to check the PROPER timing with this stupid adjustment screw, or, should I just put it on and then use the KR to tell? ... It would be nice know the exact timing.

 

Guys,

I removed my Opti and found the causes of my issues. I have posted a link to my report including pictures in a new thread. I hope you find it useful.

Jeff

http://web.camaross.com/forums/showthread.php?t=464633

 

The only proper way to check your total actual timing would be with a timing light. You can use either a cheap one that utilizes tape on the balancer or an adjustable one that's more expensive. If your knock sensor and knock module are stock, then you might be able to adjust to where it's just picking up knock and then back it off a bit, but with so many upgrades, I don't know how you could tell if it's false knock or real knock, and you would have to make sure it's not picking up knock under load at high RPM. I would just look at what kind of timing others are running with similar setups and set the MSD to two turns out as specified. If anyone has a timing light, could you check and see if it's the same as a regular opti?

 

The photos are not encouraging. Question would be why would the rotor rub on the plate that covers the optical section? Does is appear that the plate might have warped from excessive heat, or bowed from the vacuum being hooked up in a way to cause a lower pressure on the rotor side of the plate?

The "D" pin seems like it is basically the ground.

 

That looks like a bad put together unit Msd should replace it, you never want to buy something that is put out on the market so quickly I think we would have to wait at least 2 years because of such a high demand they put them together to quickly.

 

Injuneer,

Before I installed the MSD, I turned the rotor to feel the bearing. I was impressed with how smooth it felt. There definitely was no rubbing before I installed it. The black cover that the rotor is rubbing against is fairly solid so I don't believe vaccum caused it to distort. Plus I don't think it is airtight so pressure should not build up in front or behind it putting pressure on it. You can see from the pictures that the center of the plate is rubbing while the outer edge is not. It appears that the plate bowed. I am guessing from heat expansion.

I didn't want to risk any problems with the warranty so I did not disassemble the unit other than removal of the cap. I made MSD aware that I was publishing my findings and that there is great interest in what they have to say. I'll keep you up to date...

Jeff

 

Just an update on my prob. It's not the MSD opti. I finally got a chance to take mine apart, it was indexed correctly and as clean as the day I installed it inside. no bad wires anywhere.
I think I have a fuel system issue but that's for another thread.

 

Ok so I got my MSD Opti on. Now have 2 questions.

a) where does the o-ring go? If I put the o-ring just around the black housing like in the instruction pic (although not very clear), the cap does not sit right when bolted down, it bows between the bolts and looks like crap. However if I put the o-ring around the machined edge on the body of the distributor itself and put the cap on, it seals well (it squishes the o-ring lighly) and the cap sits perfect/rotor moves no problem. I installed it this way as I think its the way it should be. Only makes sence. The other way it does not fit just right.

b) the stupid timing screw. I didn't touch it. Should I? I'm gonna work on installing my pass. side hooker LT tomorrow, and if I get it done, will do the plugs/wires on that side and will be ready to install my electric WP, but need to know what to do with this screw.

Thanks guys,

Igor.

 

Sounds like you got it right. It goes around the machined edge on the body of the distributor.It's tricky to get it to sit on there but that's where it needs to be.

 

Igor, I left mine in the position MSD left it when they rebuilt it (1.5 turns from bottom) and it runs good. If any thing, you might advance it a little by turning it counterclockwise. Initially, I would just leave it as set and see how it runs. It will probably be fine.

Jeff

 

I used this silicone lubricant we use on our downhole drilling o-rings for our tools. THe stuff is great, it lubricates and keeps the moisture out, but is non hardening. That helped keep the o-ring on there. After install I looked all around the opti for signs of "bludging" in case I pinched the o-ring (as I did it on the car so I could make sure I indexed the opti right) and the cap seems to sit 100% flush, so here is hoping.

Jeff, can I move the timing pointer junk w/water pump in place?

Thanks,

Igor.

 

Igor, The timing adjustment is accessible from the passenger side. It is easy to access with a 1/2 socket and a universal joint. I used a 1/4 drive ratchet and extension and it made it very easy to access. You can get to it with everything completely installed on the car including the air intake elbow.

Jeff

 

ok, I'm a dumbass. It was my coil wire arcing off the fresh air inlet tube on the new MSD opti. replaced wire, car runs like a champ.

 

Well got my car running today (msd opti). Drove it to the exhaust shop and back (had to get the y-pipe fabbed) and it drove good both ways. Starts/runs good/crisp.

I still have to change oil and do a few more little things before I can lean on it to see how it really does, but I did try a bit of WOT in third gear on the way home and saw no miss. I'm hoping its all good.

Yes Jeff, it seems that its easy to get to the timing adjuster with the car all back together, which is kinda cool, but I didn't touch mine at all.

So far so good, everything went well, even my fabbed O2 extentions work. However I could steel the harness off my '94 parts car for fabbing one side only, but the other side I had to jerry-rig. Its working, but I'm gonna go to the local boneyard and try to find some harness connectors so I can build a real nice extention. I'm also gonna build the ABS wire extentions for the front abs wheel sensors and route them a different way, stupid longtubes, lol.

Hopefully when I lean on the car tomorrow a bit the new opti shows its working good.

When I took my 60k ignition appart, I think everything was stock. Opti/plugs/wires. Car still started and ran great, but broke up (ignition wise) above 4500 RPM in thrid gear. I think it was a combo of old plugs/wires and old cap/rotor. I think new cap/rotor/plugs/wires would have fixed my issues, but, had to try the shiny new msd unit.

Thanks for all the help guys!